The Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Journey Time 5224R

Whereas chronographs and complicated calendars are sometimes seen because the classics of Patek Philippe – and generally each mixed – traveller’s watches of every kind have lengthy been current inside the model’s collections. Do not forget that Patek, along with Louis Cottier, pioneered the idea of the world time watch. There are extra journey watches and problems for on a regular basis use out there, and the Journey Time twin time zone operate is called Patek’s imaginative and prescient of this multi-time-zone idea. This 12 months, the model presents a watch that mixes class, classism and practicality, but with a slight dosage of originality and casualness; the Calatrava 24-Hour Journey Time 5224R.

Among the many quite a few problems out there in Patek Philippe’s collections, the Journey Time system for the show of a second time zone (with two centre hour fingers, one in every of which might be adjusted backwards or forwards in one-hour steps) has turn into a basic, with confirmed practicality when travelling. Paired with pushers to regulate the extra time zone, and more often than not with two day-night indicators, it has been seen in a number of watches; the best-known mannequin in all probability being the Aquanaut Journey Time 5164A. After all, it has later been used within the singular Calatrava Pilot 5524, within the technically-advanced Aquanaut Superior Analysis 5650, or mixed with varied problems, similar to a chronograph within the Nautilus 5990 or the model new Calatrava Pilot 5924, or with an annual calendar within the 5326 and even a posh alarm within the 5520.

Nonetheless, how good the system is – these two + and – pushers on the left facet are very sensible certainly when you should alter the native time – in addition they make these watches sporty, fairly uncommon on the wrist and this Journey Time system isn’t notably suited to a chic watch. And likewise, the dial that requires two impartial day-and-night indicators (one for the native time, one for residence time) essentially loses some sleekness.

Enters the Calatrava 24-Hour Show Journey Time or reference 5224R. The concept behind this watch was easy; providing a traveller’s mannequin inside the elegant case of a Calatrava, with a clear show – that means, no further operate seen, no holes or apertures… Simply the glossy, elegant look that can all the time be related to a Calatrava. Visually talking, the mission has been achieved. The 5224R might nearly be seen as a time-only watch with a small second sub-dial, save for the extra centre hand. And as you’ve seen in all probability there are not any pushers on the facet, and no recessed correctors within the caseband.

So, how did Patek removed the pushers and the small day-night home windows… The reply lies in an authentic show, with all of the hours of the day and night time displayed directly on the dial. Whereas it’s pretty widespread to have the extra time zone (a.okay.a house time) displayed on a 24h scale, right here each hour fingers rotate across the dial on this day by day method. It certainly means a show of native time and residential time by two centre fingers turning on a 24-hour circle, and thus no want anymore for the busy home windows for day-night indication. The result’s, nevertheless, a watch with an unconventional show that can, indubitably, require some adaptation.

The design of this Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Show Journey Time is straight impressed by one other authentic watch within the assortment, the Calatrava Weekly Calendar 5212A – a chic but informal watch that I’ve all the time cherished… Now we have right here the identical total design for the case, with a skinny bezel, sharp angles, elongated, tapered lugs with a stepped profile (known as curved two-tier lugs by Patek) and a skinny profile – 10.2mm in top. Nonetheless, the brand new Journey Time 5224R is bigger at 42mm in diameter and manufactured from 18k pink gold, giving it extra presence and demonstrativeness on the wrist. Nothing shouting or loud, however a little bit of the identical feeling as when the Chronograph 5070 was launched.

The dial of this new mannequin is clear and easy by way of show, however not by way of execution. The bottom is navy blue-coloured, with a double railway-track scale for the hours and minutes. A number of textures are used so as to improve legibility; a round striated centre, a round satin-finished hour circle and a snailed small-seconds counter with a rose-gilt define. What strikes me most about this dial is the variety of appliques… 44 completely different utilized markers and numerals are used, alternating Arabic numerals and hour markers and its cabochon 5-minute markers. Certainly, it does make an affect however feels extra coherent on the wrist and from a slight distance than in our close-up photographs – plus, it has a little bit of that beloved classic Roulette type. The fingers are additionally utilizing a syringe form, both full and luminous, or openworked – a method that has turn into a basic on Patek’s fashionable watches.

As for the mechanics, the Calatrava 5224R depends on one of many model’s greatest base calibres, the 31-260. Initially developed for the 2011 Annual Calendar Regulator Reference 5235 (additionally in rose gold right here), it was later solely reworked in 2021 for the In-Line Perpetual Calendar Reference 5236P. Patek gave this base motion a 4hz frequency, 20% extra barrel-spring torque, a micro-rotor in platinum that’s heavier than gold and thus brings higher winding energy and a discount wheel that uncouples the self-winding mechanism when the watch is being manually wound and thus reduces put on. Moreover, the form of the bridges was additionally reworked with a fascinating collection of retro-styled finger bridges.

Final 12 months, with the launch of the Annual Calendar Journey Time 5326G, Patek as soon as once more labored on this motion and developed a number of improvements, resulting in eight patent purposes. Three of them are used within the Calatrava 24-Hour Journey Time 5224R. Seen by the sapphire caseback, the motion retains its good-looking structure with finger bridges (one for every of the wheels of the gear practice) and the platinum micro-rotor. Comparatively skinny at 3.7mm, it permits for the 5224R to be a correct Calatrava with a slender case. A lot of the work has been carried out on the correction of the time zone, as Patek changed the standard correction pushers for native time on the left-hand flank of the case with a patented correction system utilizing the crown pulled out to the intermediate place (backwards and forwards adjustment in one-hour steps), a system already used on the 5326G. The opposite modification considerations the gears for the central native hours, which at the moment are displayed on a 24-hour base.

Availability & Worth

Worn on an off-the-cuff and supple blue calfskin strap with a nubuck end, the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Show Journey Time Reference 5224R-001 will probably be a part of the everlasting assortment. It’s priced at EUR 56,900. For extra particulars, please go to www.patek.com.