The Rolex Sea-Dweller 116600, the perfect fashionable Rolex dive watch

When you concentrate on Rolex dive watches, the Submariner – in all its potential declinations – will certainly be the primary mannequin you’ll bear in mind. Being the primary of its sort for the model, and one of many earliest watches particularly designed for skilled diving, it does make sense to say it. There’s, nonetheless, one different dive watch within the Crown’s portfolio that actually deserves consideration. A watch that has someway at all times flew underneath the radar of the mainstream public, a watch that true device watch fans know to be the go-to answer; the Sea-Dweller. And among the many a number of executions out there, there’s one which stands out for a lot of causes. A brief-lived watch, with nice proportions, historically-relevant design and options and all the fantastic thing about a contemporary Rolex. At present, we focus on the good Rolex Sea-Dweller 116600 and why it is likely to be the perfect fashionable dive watch the crown has produced. 

Historic reminder

The Rolex Sea-Dweller was born first as an improve of the Submariner, supposed for skilled saturation divers – the presence of a helium escape valve is the primary side to take note of right here, much more than the elevated stage of water-resistance. Professional divers, true pioneers of their instances, together with these from the SeaLab explorations or the Cousteau groups, seen that after a dive, the crystal of their Submariner might come out within the decompression chamber. Removed from leisure divers, these scientists and hardcore divers wanted one thing that would resist the check of saturation diving.

This method, used to face up to dives for prolonged durations of time, requires the presence of helium within the respiration combination, which might ultimately penetrate the watch circumstances. And throughout the decompression, the helium needed to discover a approach out of the case, often accomplished by its weakest level, the plexiglass crystal on prime. The reply to this situation would be the HEV, or helium escape valve. And if the paternity of this gadget is reasonably contested – Doxa is also known as the primary – this aspect would be the foremost differentiating side between the Sea-Dweller and the Submariner. In truth, early SD watches have been nonetheless displaying the Submariner emblem on their dial.

Sea-Dweller Double Purple reference 1665 – picture by Christie’s

Sea-Dweller Nice White reference 1665 – picture by Christie’s

The story begins in 1967, with the reference 1665. Let apart a handful of prototypes nicknamed “Single Purple Sea-Dweller” and having, for many of them, a 500m waterproof case, the primary manufacturing mannequin out there to the general public was the Rolex Double Purple Sea-Dweller (DRSD) reference 1665, produced from 1967 to 1977. The distinction with a Submariner was principally to be seen within the particulars and the diving specs; 40mm case with HEV, extremely domed sapphire, date with out cyclops, and a water-resistance elevated to a formidable 610m. It will likely be adopted by an evolution mannequin, but with the identical reference quantity, the Rolex Sea-Dweller Nice White reference 1665. Visually, the brand was now totally white, but it surely retains the identical case and the identical diving credentials. It will likely be produced from 1977 to 1983.

Rolex Sea-Dweller Triple Six reference 16660 – picture by Christie’s

Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 16600 – picture by Christie’s

Then come fashionable instances, with the 5-digit collection, beginning with the Rolex Sea-Dweller Triple Six reference 16660. Produced from 1978 to 1989, the primary distinction was the substitute of the plexiglass by a sapphire crystal. Because of this and a barely revised case, the watch got here with a doubled water-resistance (1,220m or 4,000ft). It’s additionally a part of the transitional Rolex collection, as out there with matte dial with painted markers or shiny dial with utilized markers. In 1989, and up till 2009, the SD can be out there with the Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 16600. Visually virtually similar to the late Triple Six fashions, it got here principally with mechanical evolutions and it was produced underneath the swap from Tritium to SLN.

Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 116600 – picture by Zeitauktion

Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600 – picture by Christie’s

Placing apart the Deepsea launched in 2008 (which is a reasonably completely different mannequin in our books, regardless that bearing the identify SD on its dial), the basic Sea-Dweller can be out of manufacturing for 5 years, earlier than its comeback in 2014 with the Rolex Sea-Dweller 116600, the archetypal fashionable instrument dive watch by Rolex. Produced from 2014 to 2017 solely, it got here with a number of upgrades, equivalent to a brand new case, a ceramic bezel with a fully-marked scale or a a lot better bracelet. Lastly, the most recent evolution is the Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600, out there since 2017 with a contemporary 3235 motion, a case dimension elevated to 43mm and for the primary time, a cyclops over the date. There’s additionally a cool reference to the early prototypes, with a Single Purple point out. This was Rolex’s answer to distinguish the SD from the Submariner.

The Sea-Dweller 116600, the perfect of each worlds

What’s the Rolex Sea-Dweller? In brief, it’s a watch that has lengthy lived within the shadows of the Submariner, and is commonly seen because the uber-Submariner – for probably the most enthusiastic of us – or a easy evolution of the Submariner – for many who don’t actually see the curiosity of this watch. We, at MONOCHROME, and principally our founder Frank and myself, have a really particular affection for the Sea-Dweller and, primarily, the Sea-Dweller 116600.

If some will see the SD as an upgraded Submariner – which is clearly not totally fallacious – I’ll clarify why I imagine this mannequin is particular to us. Within the early days of diving, and coincidentally of dive watches, these timepieces have been true devices meant for use and abused, worn for skilled causes. Issues modified later – across the late Nineteen Seventies – when Rolex sports activities fashions began to grow to be standing symbols to be worn onshore. The Submariner modified from an instrument to an off-the-cuff gents’s look ahead to weekends and holidays, which might full a group of chic gold watches. The decline of the “device dive watch” additionally coincides with the appearance of diving computer systems, which made such watches reasonably irrelevant, or at the very least much less of a necessity, being relegated to the function of mechanical backup (I do know our resident diver Derek received’t totally agree with me, however he has a sentimental reference to dive watches, even at this time).

As such, if the Submariner grew to become the archetypal luxurious weekend watch, the Sea-Dweller barely took the pattern and stayed, for a lot of, an instrument with approach too excessive capacities and fewer consolation on the wrist. However as at all times, there are two sides to a coin. And you too can take a look at issues another way. To us, right here at MONO, the Sea-Dweller is the final of its sort for Rolex, a resurgence of the previous days of devices dive watches, a distinct segment watch that isn’t meant to be proven, a watch that isn’t meant to be a standing image, however a watch made for these attracted by technicality, those that acknowledge the fantastic thing about the specs, the sheer technical masterpiece that could be a Sea-Dweller. You need a cool look ahead to the weekend, one thing that does the job for a leisure dive, however that additionally says one thing about your self? Get a contemporary Submariner. When you’ve got a robust curiosity in dive watches, within the historical past {of professional} divers and in every thing overly-technical, the SD is your watch.

However remember that all SD fashions are usually not equal. And that leads us to the Rolex Sea-Dweller 116600. What makes this watch one of many best fashionable Rolexes, in our opinion, is a really tremendous equation of components, which must be in comparison with different fashions. The SD 4000 will not be a watch that can instantly appeal to you, it’s a watch that must be explored carefully to then perceive its magnificence. Inside the SD lineup, you will get classic fashions, perceive all generations of 1665. Excellent watches that include all the failings of classic, and aren’t the perfect relating to actually put on them – we’re not likely into “secure queens” at MONO… You then can take a look at the 16660 or the 16600, that are each nice watches however, then once more, are usually not as snug, well-equipped and secure as a Sea-Dweller 116600.

Then comes the currently-produced 126600 choice. And with its 43mm case and cyclops over the date, it’s a watch that has someway misplaced the enchantment of the unique Sea-Dweller. This evolution, relating to industrial issues and coherence of the gathering, is comprehensible. However we’re sentimental, and that outsized watch with a cyclops doesn’t create the identical feelings. Another choice, which absolutely is a secure choice, might be the Submariner fashions that have been out there concurrently the Sea-Dweller 116600, that means the trendy ceramic references with 6-digit references – 116610 Date and 114060 No-Date. Placing apart the technical downgrade these signify in comparison with an SD, there’s the difficulty of the “square-ish” super-case. Nice watches, for positive, however they’ll’t rival with a Sea-Dweller when it comes to specs and, one thing barely extra subjective, the fantastic thing about the traces of an SD 116600.

This leaves us with the next equation: classic fashions are too fragile to be worn each day, the trendy 43mm will not be anymore the SD we’ve come to like, the 6-digit Submariner (earlier technology) will not be technically on par with an SD and its case has much less enchantment. And now, you begin to perceive the fantastic thing about the Sea-Dweller 116600. To begin with, it retains all the weather of the gathering and its comeback in 2014, after 5 years of absence, has created a heat welcome by a group of long-lasting fans. The case, nonetheless measuring 40mm in diameter, is someway fantastically balanced, with lugs which are thinner than a Submariner. There’s one thing so proper about its proportions.

Wanting on the 116600 within the particulars, you’ll have the ability to see the excellent execution of a contemporary Rolex watch. It’s neat, like actually, actually neat. The case is pretty heavy, pretty thick however on the similar time, the casebands have been stored to an affordable peak, and many of the extra thickness in comparison with the Submariner is positioned on the caseback. Some will let you know that the Sea-Dweller 4000 is a watch that lacks consolation and feels “top-heavy” however, by our personal expertise, it actually will depend on the wearer and the form of his wrist.

A number of design features of the Sea-Dweller 116600 are noticeable. To begin with, it retains the basic cyclops-less design, one thing that has at all times been a particular aspect of this assortment. I do know that the absence of a cyclops is all the way down to technical causes at the start, but it surely stays an essential truth within the modern, instrumental look of the SD. That non-magnified date merely appears to be like cool and distinctive inside Rolex’s portfolio. Then, there may be the greatness of typical Rolex fashionable options. The ceramic (Cerachrom) insert is right here outfitted with a completely graduated scale, making it much less shiny, extra technical. The bezel is a pure pleasure to make use of, clean and stiff on the similar time, giving a reassuring feeling of high quality and of a wonderfully adjusted gadget. Inside, you’ll discover the calibre 3135, and even when doesn’t have all of the options of the brand new 32XX, this motion is a no brainer. Dependable, exact, ultra-robust.

The bracelet is likely to be probably the most fascinating function in comparison with classic and even youngtimer fashions. With its modernly manufactured hyperlinks and end-links, it feels strong as a rock. And the clasp is an engineer’s masterpiece, outfitted with the Oysterlock security catch, the double extension system that enables the watch to be worn over a diving go well with, and eventually, the Rolex Glidelock, which permits the wearer to fine-adjust the size of the bracelet by 20mm, in 2mm increments. All of that in a single small clasp…

To us, the form of the case, its proportions, the cyclops-less date, the 40mm diameter, the over-engineered feeling once you deal with this reference 116600, makes it the final of the true Sea-Dweller. Absolutely, it’s not good, because it won’t go well with smaller wrists. Absolutely, a Submariner can be greater than sufficient relating to making a bounce within the pool. Sure, this can be a heavy and comparatively thick watch (about 15.5mm) however the intelligent building of the case someway makes it visually thinner. However there’s an plain attraction to this watch, the instrument feeling that solely the SD has (or had…) And that makes it, to us, the perfect of the trendy dive Rolex watches.

Collectability of the Rolex Sea-Dweller 116600

The ultimate level is extra of a collector’s argument. The Sea-Dweller 116600 is likely one of the Rolex fashions with the shortest manufacturing run, having been produced for 3 years solely – 2014-2017. Including to that the truth that the Sea-Dweller has by no means been probably the most produced of the Rolex fashions, you possibly can count on this reference 116600 to be a comparatively uncommon watch, at the very least in keeping with Rolex’s requirements. This absolutely nonetheless means a number of 1000’s of examples, but nothing in comparison with a Submariner 116610LN. If you concentrate on it, the mixture of a brief manufacturing run and the present reputation of metal Rolexes would possibly make it a comparatively secure guess.

We’ve seen a latest surge within the costs of 116600. After its discontinuation, a mint instance might be yours for about 10k euros (which was about retail value). Now, count on round 17k euros. It might need to do with the general pattern of the market, greater than with the rarity of the mannequin itself. There’s presumably one thing to discover if you’d like one of many actually nice fashionable dive watches, and on the similar time one thing that would doubtlessly maintain its worth sooner or later.