A few month in the past, Tudor dropped a brand new version of what’s its most hardcore dive watch so far: the Pelagos. First launched in 2012, this 42mm titanium watch was designed for motion with its 500m WR and helium valve, its ultra-focused design and the usage of light-weight, resistant and purposeful supplies. It was adopted by an evolution with a manufacture motion, then a slightly funky LHD mannequin and just lately, a military-issued mannequin, the FXD. All very instrumental device watches… However now now we have the Tudor Pelagos 39, and because the mud has settled, I needed to take a second take a look at the watch. I realised that this watch isn’t only a downsized mannequin… Regardless of its acquainted look, it really has a slightly completely different goal.
The Information
Let’s not trouble an excessive amount of with this half. We’ve been there, achieved that already. The Tudor Pelagos 39 is, on paper at the very least, a decreased model of the traditional Pelagos 42 with a much less instrumental edge, or in several phrases, with a extra city life-style vocation. First, the diameter has been decreased from 42mm to now 39mm. Then, the case remains to be titanium (grade 2 on this context), nonetheless completely brushed, nonetheless extraordinarily nicely manufactured, and nonetheless has the acquainted design that instantly remembers traditional Rolex codes. Water-resistance? 200 metres. Top? A really first rate 11.8mm, about the identical as a Black Bay Fifty-Eight (and I’ve hardly ever heard anybody complaining about this watch). Lug-to-Lug? 47mm, which is even smaller than the BB58. The caseback is metal, screwed and plain easy. The crown screws down and is inserted between lateral guards.
The novelty of this mannequin is the textures. The bezel, unidirectional in fact, has a radially brushed ceramic insert with a luminous, partially graduated 60-minute scale. The dial additionally has its personal texture. It’s black however sunray-brushed and never matte completed. The entire dial has been streamlined; the inside flange is easy in its design (not partially framing the markers, like on the 42mm mannequin), and the arms are white, luminous and typical Snowflake-shaped. The markers are additionally white with a 3D form and product of monobloc ceramic composite. The date has been eliminated, leaving us with a time-only show. A cherry-red Pelagos point out is the one pop of color to interrupt the monotony.
Contained in the case is roughly the identical motion because the BB58, the calibre MT5400. Made by Kenissi, it shares the identical attributes as most Tudor watches: 70h energy reserve, chronometer certification (-2 and +4 seconds variation per day as per Tudor’s necessities), 4Hz frequency with a variable inertia stability and an anti-magnetic silicon hairspring, transversal bridge for extra stability. A motion that’s meant to be exact, sensible and dependable.
Lastly, the Tudor Pelagos 39 is introduced on a 3-link grade 2 titanium bracelet, once more completely brushed. It’s closed by a satisfying clasp, which features a diving extension and the model’s fast adjustment consolation launch (T-Match system), permitting an adjustment window of 8 millimetres in 5 positions, on the fly, with no device. A black rubber strap with its personal titanium pin buckle can also be included, in addition to a 110mm rubber extension to put on the watch over a wetsuit.
The place to place the Tudor Pelagos 39?
This was a little bit of a difficulty for me when the watch was first launched. The Pelagos assortment, up till now, was one thing of a distinct segment assortment, which I might simply outline as Tudor’s reply to the Sea-Dweller – and if I have to be sincere, a greater reply than Rolex’s watch, because it actually has all of the attributes of a correct device for use and abused. The unique Pelagos remains to be one of the vital spectacular deep-dive watches available on the market, with out an oz. of luxurious or any concession to class. It seems to be and looks like a bit of apparatus for a diver and is mainly geared up with every little thing you’ll ever want. And due to this, it’s a area of interest mannequin. After all, it may be worn on a standard day, on land. However I hardly think about the Pelagos 42 being the one watch you’d personal. A bit too excessive, I assume.

The Tudor Pelagos 39 is drastically completely different in its strategy. In truth, it’s not solely the set of specs however principally the feel and appear of the watch that modifications the sport. When first introducing the watch, I mentioned that it felt prefer it sits in a small window, that of “the compact dive watch with conventional options and a extra rugged and extra fashionable look than the BB58.” After just a few weeks, I believe it’s crucial for me to alter my phrases a bit.
In truth, I believe the Pelagos 39 is a special form of product, and its place available on the market will not be that of a pure dive watch anymore. It’s way more mainstream than I first imagined. With its “much less hardcore” specs, its compact (however not small both) dimensions, its textured dial and bezel, bringing some refinement, and its traditional, timeless design with reassuring codes, I believe that Tudor has created a special type of each day beater.
We’ve typically talked about the “one-watch-collection” fashions that would simply be recognized as a metal Rolex Datejust 41 or an Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra. The do-it-all form of watch, which is ideal for a enterprise assembly, good for an evening out, but nonetheless resistant sufficient for a weekend on the seaside. With the Pelagos 39, Tudor is bringing a extra fashionable, youthful, extra versatile sort of one-watch-collection mannequin, the each day beater of the millennials, a daily-oriented watch with a reasonably managed sporty edge. A watch that’s meant for many who don’t want a jacket and shirt on the workplace however use a bicycle to get to work, put on a pair of denims and sneakers at a gathering, and nonetheless need to use the identical watch on weekends when browsing or leaping in a pool.
Clearly, the Tudor Pelagos 39 might be a really first rate, well-performing dive watch. Little question about that, it would do the job for 99% of leisure diving conditions. However to me, this isn’t the aim of this watch. It’s a solution to altering mentalities, new life, new codes of style or fast-evolving mentalities in skilled environments. In truth, I even assume the Pelagos may be very intelligent as a product meant for non-hardcore watch lovers. It’s softer than a Pelagos 42 with out shedding its diving attributes, it’s traditional and refined sufficient to take care of its magnificence through the years, it’s discreet and thus received’t appeal to an excessive amount of of the unhealthy form of consideration, and its case has a gender-free edge concerning the scale… I imply, it’s a really 2022 product certainly. And on the identical time, leisure divers will nonetheless have lots to take pleasure in with this watch.
What did I like about it? And What I didn’t like?
Objectively, trying on the info and the general execution of the Tudor Pelagos 39, there actually isn’t a lot to complain about. The entire package deal is of a really prime quality, the main points are good throughout, the motion is exact and does its job to perfection, and the specs are merely greater than sufficient for the overwhelming majority of customers (and if it’s not sufficient, the 42mm will remedy the problem).

Subjectively, there are some things to say. To begin with, it’s in regards to the measurement. Sure, for many wrists – the vary that covers most common sizes, excluding extremes (beneath 15cm or above 19cm) – this smaller Pelagos might be near sports activities watch perfection. The diameter of 39mm (in actual fact, nearer to 40mm on the bezel) and the comparatively skinny case, mixed with a comparatively compact L2L – sure, once more, it’s even higher than a BB58, with about 1mm much less, and a whopping 3mm lower than the Pelagos 500m – is making it a particularly versatile watch. The truth that you’ve gotten each the titanium bracelet and the rubber strap included can also be including to this sense. And the toned-down instrumental look, due to some gentle textures on the dial and bezel, is once more making this watch extra usable every day.

Talking of that, I positively desire the feel and appear of this Pelagos 39 over its larger brother. Particularly, the bezel and its radial-brushed texture. I’ve by no means been a fan of the all-matte bezel of the bigger model. Altogether, it’s making this watch extra attention-grabbing visually…
However, extra attention-grabbing doesn’t imply actually horny. I do know it’s all all the way down to preferences, however the Pelagos 39 isn’t what you possibly can name a sizzling watch, a speaking piece, or a putting mannequin. It won’t be its vocation within the first place however let’s be sincere, it doesn’t reinvent the wheel. It’s a traditional, streamlined, pure-looking dive watch. There’s not a lot occurring really, and the entire thing lacks a little bit of allure in my eyes… only a tiny dosage of eccentricity. A small imperfection. You already know, the “magnificence mark” of Cindy Crawford above her higher lip (sure, it’s a mole…). One thing to spice issues up. On this respect, the BB58 with its classic attraction and its hotter colors (particularly the black dial model) does a greater job of being enticing…
The draw back with the Pelagos 39 is, it’s so good and nicely made that it really turns into a bit chilly. The upside is that the watch is not going to turn into out of style quickly. And for somebody who’s shopping for it with the concept to put on it every day, and for the long term, this isn’t a small facet to think about.
The very last thing with the Pelagos 39 that annoys me is that, if Tudor had the nice concept to incorporate each a bracelet and a rubber strap, there’s no quick-change system. I’ve been pointing this concern to the model and their reply, if one way or the other justified, doesn’t fulfill me completely. It’s all all the way down to the resistance of such methods through the years, and Tudor has but to discover a quick-change mechanism that’s resistant sufficient. Properly, at the very least there’s room for enchancment.
However sure, altogether, the Tudor Pelagos 39 is a slightly spectacular watch. Not essentially the most putting, however one of the vital coherent. And the worth (CHF 4,200 or EUR 4,140), if not low-cost by any means, feels justified and extremely aggressive in comparison with attainable options. Availability isn’t but as straightforward as we’d like, however it’s not inconceivable to search out one both.
For extra particulars, please go to tudorwatch.com.
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