Understanding the brand new Grand Seiko Evolution 9 design philosophy.

The historical past of Grand Seiko dates again to 1960 when Seiko determined it was time for a extra luxury-focused vary of merchandise. Suwa Seikosha, a Seiko subsidiary on the time, produced the Calibre 3180 that may be used within the first Grand Seiko watch, offered in 1964. Three years later, the legendary 44GS marked a design normal and magnificence for any future Grand Seiko labelled watch. Now, 55 years onwards, the Evolution 9 code of design channels the spirit of the unique design code set by the 44GS. However what precisely does this imply? We’re going to take you thru it proper now.

In 2017, Seiko CEO Shinji Hattori introduced that Grand Seiko would from then on be positioned as a very separate model. This has allowed the Manufacture to give attention to perfecting the luxurious watch collections and never be tied in with Seiko’s big selection of kinds and designs. From the early days, a Grand Seiko ought to be a luxurious watch, produced at a excessive normal and completed largely by hand. And in true Japanese vogue, there’s immense consideration to element, even to components unseen to the bare eye.

With the introduction of the Evolution 9 assortment, Grand Seiko commits itself to the “Grammar of Design” established with the 1967 44GS. The brand new vary of watches is positioned between the Masterpiece assortment and the Heritage, Sport and Class collections for now. To this point, the gathering encompasses 6 fashions in whole, all constructed in line with the 9 design requirements.

1. A flat dial
2. Curved facet profile of the case
3. Double broad index at 12 o’clock
4. Multi-faceted hour and minute fingers
5. Deep center grooves on the indices
6. Multi-faceted case with a flat higher floor and contrasting ending
7. Decrease centre of gravity on the wrist
8. A bracelet a minimum of half the width of the case
9. A bracelet with the proper thickness and heft

Whereas these primarily boil down to 2 teams, the outside parts, and the dial and fingers, one aspect is seemingly unnoticed: the actions. But, the brand new philosophy additionally impacts the mechanical facet of issues, as we’ll clarify.

Habillage

Whereas the 9 components are fairly self-explanatory in their very own proper, it has every little thing to do with the general aesthetics. Even in areas the place you don’t see it at first, there’s an enormous degree of consideration to element. From the skin in, it begins with a extra ergonomic case. The peak is lowered underneath the Evolution 9 tips, leading to a decrease centre of gravity on the wrist and a extra comfy sporting expertise.

An necessary aspect in any Grand Seiko watch is the ending of the case. The Evolution 9 assortment is not any exception and follows the identical fundamental case design of the unique 1967 44GS. The sharp facetted instances characteristic a curved facet profile with a flat high floor. The ending is a mixture of a nice hairline brushing and Zaratsu-polishing. As we’ve seen with the side-by-side comparability of the SLGH005 and SLGA009 fashions, there might be small variations between every mannequin.

It’s decided that any Evolution 9 labelled watch will include a bracelet or strap) a minimum of half the width of the case. Ergo, when the case measures 40mm in diameter, the bracelet or strap might be a minimum of 20mm broad for a balanced look. Any bracelet will even be of a selected thickness to create a pleasant circulation and taper from the case to the clasp. Total it ends in a extra pronounced look with a refined degree of ending.

Dials and fingers

It’s no secret Grand Seiko typically takes inspiration from nature surrounding the Shinshu and Shizukuishi studios the place all watches are made. This isn’t purely restricted to the Evolution 9 assortment both, as Class fashions may also characteristic dials impressed by forests, mountains, water, seasonal modifications and so forth. It’s simply that with the Evolution 9 assortment, that is to this point the one reoccurring theme.

Every watch that falls underneath the Evolution 9 assortment has a flat dial with giant utilized and faceted indices. Textures and colors will come from a lake’s floor rippling within the wind, birch bushes, or tree rings to present you some examples. So far as the hour markers are involved, every one might be faceted and given contrasting finishes to glitter and catch the sunshine. Every marker will characteristic a central groove with completely different textures as properly, to additional enhance contrasts. The marker at 12 o’clock might be a minimum of double the width of the remainder of the indices, with a double groove.

So far as the fingers are involved, these might be completed in coherence with the central theme of every particular mannequin. For example, when evaluating the SLGH005 and SLGA009 “White Birch” fashions, you’ll discover refined nuances between the type and ending of the fingers. Nevertheless, each single one might be faceted, polished and brushed, with the minute hand extending to the outer fringe of the dial and touching the minute observe.

Actions

Whereas the Evolution 9 philosophy is primarily concerning the design of a watch, additionally it is of affect on the actions. The SLGH005 and SLGA009 White Birch gave us an ideal alternative to check each the 9S computerized and the 9R hybrid quartz-mechanical actions. Each of those characteristic the newest technological improvements from Grand Seiko, and each profit from an up to date and extra refined building and design.

On one hand, there’s the Hello-Beat 9SA2 computerized calibre, which is produced within the Shizukuishi watch studio within the Iwate prefecture within the northeast of Japan. This leading edge mechanical motion options Grand Seiko’s Twin Impulse Escapement, operating at a frequency of 36,000vph. Its trendy building ends in a really comfy energy reserve of 60 hours. The ending displays the Shizukuishi studio’s environment, with gold-filled engraving, a number of bridges with anglage, finely utilized vertical striping, polishes screws (generally blued as properly) and an open-worked rotor.

Alternatively, we now have the Spring Drive 9RA5 quartz-mechanical hybrid motion, which is produced within the Shinshu watch studio, located within the Nagano prefecture in central Japan. It combines one of the best components of each a quartz motion and a mechanical motion. On the again, there’s an influence reserve, which signifies the 120-hour autonomy when totally wound. By way of ending, this is a little more restrained however no much less interesting. The bridges are frosted, with bevelled and polished edges. The engraving is full of blue lacquer, and the screws have been blued as properly.

All these components mixed lead to among the most refined Grand Seiko watches so far. The designs are balanced, with care and a spotlight to each single little element. The dials are repeatedly very evocative and present Grand Seiko’s ability to switch the everchanging enchantment of nature right into a static dial. And better of all, it’s nonetheless in tune with the “Grammar of Design” established all these years in the past with the 1967 44GS.

For extra data, please go to Grand-Seiko.com