That is the most recent Christopher Ward C60 Trident Professional 300. I’ve been sitting with this look ahead to fairly some time. The advantage of that is that, in contrast to quite a lot of critiques, the place the images are rushed and the phrases solely barely much less rushed, I’ve been capable of expertise this watch as a daily a part of my assortment (it’s not, regardless that it’s been with me for longer than some watches I’ve bought). I’ve had the chance to overview a handful of fashions from Christopher Ward, and whereas this isn’t my private favourite (how might I not favor the Bel Canto?), I’ll say upfront that the brand new C60 Trident looks as if a fruits of types; this watch is the fullest evolution of Christopher Ward, the model.
By this level, it’s essential to’ve dealt with a Christopher Ward, proper? Although the one place to attempt them is in England, most watch teams have not less than one one that owns one. The model is wildly well-liked, and though costs have been creeping up, it’s often thought to be providing unimaginable worth. Prior to now two or three years, the model has been consolidating and refining its design language. As many persons are more than pleased to let you know [read: complain about], the model is on its fourth brand since its founding 18 years in the past. I’m certain we’d all like to suppose that each model has or ought to have the identical sureness of id from day one as Rolex, however that’s a bit unrealistic, and Christopher Ward has adjusted its brand as its model’s picture and choices have advanced and improved. Along with (lastly) deciding on the present brand that blends the Swiss and English flags, the model has additionally expanded using its signature light-catcher case, lastly utilizing it for its flagship dive assortment, the C60. Save for a number of fashions, just like the Bel Canto, virtually all of CW’s watches now characteristic the dynamic case design.
Right here it’s. The Christopher Ward light-catcher case, on its flagship Trident diver. I’ve described this numerous occasions, and also you’ve most likely seen footage or dealt with or examine it simply as many occasions. Listed below are the highlights. It does what its identify suggests, catching the sunshine with alternating polished and brushed surfaces, not one of the straight or flat, all sweeping and curving and making a dynamic profile. The screw-down crown is completely sized and works with out difficulty. The bezel slopes downward and has a two-part ceramic and metal insert that gives an additional minute scale; the totally lumed bezel operates flawlessly, moist or dry, with 120 satisfying clicks. Because the identify suggests, the watch has 300m of water resistance and the flat sapphire crystal retains issues fashionable. Design parts apart, the watch wears effortlessly and is available in three case sizes: 38, 40 (seen right here), and 42. On the 40mm, the lug-to-lug is below 48mm and the peak is simply over 11mm, making this an eminently wearable watch. These proportions, in fact, are maintained in every case dimension, so that you received’t be coping with a thick 38mm or a boxy 42mm. (For comparability, when Rolex sized its Explorer I down from 39mm to 36mm, the thickness went up from 11mm to 11.5mm.)
There’s nothing exceptional in regards to the dial’s design. Double batons at 12 with singles round for the hours, the signature CW handset, a easy 6 o’clock date window, spare dial textual content. Straightforward. There’s a brushed metal rehaut that surrounds the dial and permits for a seamless transition to the bezel. The Trident Professional 300 is offered in black, white, inexperienced, and blue, however word that the 38mm case solely is available in black or white. Whereas there are definitely tendencies towards smaller watches (and CW certainly sells colourful 36mm watches), the choice right here to restrict the smallest Trident to black and white means that Christopher Ward remains to be testing the waters.
One factor I do want the brand new Trident had taken from a few of its model siblings is the up to date handset used on the C65 Aquitaine, Sandhurst, and Cranwell fashions. These fashions (three of the latest releases from the model) have an obeliskine minutes hand that strikes a greater steadiness between the lengthy triangular hour hand and the utilized baton indices. Hopefully, that is the following step for additional establishing the model’s look, but when it’s not, I’m very conscious I’m within the minority on the subject of disliking the triangle/baton handset. No matter my ideas could also be, the arms are well-executed, with polished bevels and ample lume; I’ve additionally all the time appreciated the trident counterweight (which CW doesn’t restrict to the Trident assortment). And so long as I’m being nit-picky, let me get actually granular right here and speak in regards to the date window. This isn’t a soft-edged watch. It’s a small element however curious that the window has rounded edges on a watch like this, with a sharp-cornered body. I’ll additionally admit that it doesn’t matter and is de facto a type of issues that stands out solely below a macro lens.
Christopher Ward has employed Sellita calibers for fairly a while, now, save for its in-house work that reveals up in some particular items. Right here it’s the Sellita SW200-1, and it’s acquired all of the specs with which you’re acquainted: 28,800 vph, 38-hour energy reserve, 26 jewels, and accuracy at -/+ 20 seconds per day. It’s acquired a embellished rotor however is in any other case spare in its ending. Given the model’s confirmed capabilities and rising repute, I might like to see some further regulation, or maybe the next spec motion. Trying forward, I hope to see one in all two issues taking place with Christopher Ward and its actions. The primary risk is the model bringing all the pieces or almost all the pieces in-house. We’ve seen them reveal actually spectacular watchmaking skill with its JJ01, SH21, and FS01; it will be a delight to see CW develop some extra fundamental actions that can be utilized all through its catalog, although this is able to seemingly include a not-insignificant worth bump. The opposite possibility is sticking with an outdoor producer for almost all of its choices, however both having that producer custom-spec these calibers or doing changes in-house. In any case, I hope for some extra spectacular actions because the model continues to develop—how they do that’s as much as them.
Not too long ago, CW up to date its bracelet in three necessary methods. The primary is a extra sturdy quick-release system. Gone are the flimsy tabs you see in most straps and bracelets, changed by sturdy ones which can be a cinch to interact. The second is using screw pins as a substitute of friction pins for the hyperlinks; one of many extra irritating points of previous CW bracelets was the curse-evoking sizing course of. The third and most fun is the all-new micro-adjustment system that’s built-in into the (relatively lengthy) clasp. The information system is totally hid and needs to be operated off-wrist, however it permits for toolless adjustment of the clasp for fine-tuning the match. These clasp techniques aren’t fairly commonplace, however they’re rising in reputation, with even smaller manufacturers like Nodus, Formex, and Halios creating their very own. In three years, I anticipate there might be much more watches with them than with out.
I’ve mentioned it earlier than, however it does actually appear to be Christopher Ward can do no unsuitable. Lastly bringing the light-catcher case to the Trident collection is a no brainer and I’m frankly shocked it took this lengthy. Now there might be no mistaking a Christopher Ward for the rest, or vice versa, and that has fairly a robust advertising and marketing impact. With three totally different sizes, 4 colours, and three totally different straps, there’s one thing for each wrist. You’ve acquired no scarcity of decisions on the subject of divers, however right here’s one you possibly can depend on being successful on the wrist. The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Professional 300 is priced beginning at $850. For extra info, please go to the model’s web site.
>Model: Christopher Ward
>Mannequin: C60 Trident Professional 300
>Worth: Beginning at $850 USD
>Dimension: 40mm-wide, 11.3mm-thick, 47.45mm lug-to-lug
>When reviewer would personally put on it: Nearly any time, besides on probably the most formal of events
>Pal we’d advocate it to first: Somebody on the lookout for a per, full-spec diver that’s extraordinarily versatile
>Finest attribute of watch: Gentle-catcher case, bezel motion, up to date bracelet
>Worst attribute of watch: Ratcheting clasp can solely be sized down off-wrist, 20mm lugs might make the 38mm model’s case appear further small
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