There may be one factor I do know for sure at this level: Sapphire crystal is a really compelling materials as a wristwatch case. Immediately, I evaluate a watch that options this idea — the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Mild. It’s a restricted version of 88 items and takes the sporty Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute case and renders it in principally sapphire crystal with parts of titanium. It’s cool-looking, not completely impractical, and priced for high-end audiences solely. Let’s take a better look.
Artificial sapphire crystal made a critical debut in wristwatches within the Nineteen Eighties as a fabric used for the crystal over watch dials. Artificial sapphire is tough, clear, very scratch-resistant, and sensible to machine for wristwatch crystal makes use of. Whereas pure and artificial sapphire are kind of chemically the identical, artificial sapphire is most popular as a result of it may be grown in the proper sizes, with the proper colours and readability. So when “sapphire” is utilized in most wrist watch functions, except for specialised jewellery items, it’s artificial sapphire which is used. The problem with sapphire crystal is that, given how onerous it’s, machining it’s something however an easy course of. Whereas sapphire crystal discovered its approach into different makes use of on watch instances right here and there, it wasn’t till a couple of decade in the past that ultra-high-end watchmaker Richard Mille debuted a sapphire crystal-cased watch (priced at over one million {dollars}) that the fabric grew to become extra fascinating as a major case materials. Out there in a number of colours and now potential to be machined in a variety of shapes, sapphire crystal is now resolutely one of many obtainable supplies luxurious watchmakers can select from when rendering new ideas.
I’ve examined various sapphire crystal watches and, for probably the most half, I like the fabric. For instance, you’ll be able to see my aBlogtoWatch evaluate of the Hublot Massive Bang UNICO Magic Sapphire right here. Sure, from afar, a novice would possibly say, “Is your watch made out of plastic?” Alas, when you contact the fabric and see the way it ages over time (or doesn’t age, really), you begin to see how sapphire crystal and plastic solely share superficial similarities. The problem with sapphire crystal is within the engineering of it, on condition that not all case components may be made out of the fabric at the moment. Extra so, given its transparency, anything within the case might be seen, so there should be quite a lot of aesthetic tact within the engineering and building part. In different phrases, the aesthetic trick with sapphire crystal-cased watches is making a beautiful “uncovered” composition.
For this explicit watch, Girard-Perregaux leans closely on the economic facet of its luxurious aesthetic. The Laureato is an “engineer’s” watch on condition that the bezel is principally impressed by a 10-side nut that screws securely into place. The Laureato was initially born within the Nineteen Seventies as a response to the favored Gerald Genta-desiged Royal Oak and Nautilus. The Lauerato debuted across the identical time and, just like the greats from Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, has performed with the core timepiece theme for many years.
Value-wise, the entry-level Laureato is a significantly better deal than quite a lot of the competitors, and you continue to get the identical comfy really feel and high-quality building. However Girard-Perregaux is hardly an entry-level firm. Its merchandise actually run the gamut, and this explicit limited-edition sapphire “Mild” mannequin is priced on the high-luxury spectrum of almost $90,000 USD. An honest chunk of the worth is within the motion, which is given a good quantity of hand-finishing and ornament. It’s the in-house-made Girard-Perergaux calibre GP01800 computerized, and that is the second watch within the final yr we’ve reviewed on aBlogtoWatch that options it. I beforehand skilled this pretty skeletonized computerized motion within the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton watch evaluate on aBlogtoWatch right here.
The motion operates at 4Hz with 54 hours of energy reserve and options the time with a subsidiary seconds dial. Most individuals agree that this isn’t solely a good-looking skeletonized watch face design, but additionally one that’s really fairly legible. This isn’t a high quality that’s routinely related to most skeletonized watch faces. It makes the Laureato Absolute one of many very uncommon sport-style watches that will get away with a historically adorned skeletonized watch face, and a legible one, at that.
Across the periphery of the dial is an fascinating polished ring with little hills and valleys in it that represents the hour markers. That is an fascinating concept and never an aesthetic you’ll see all over the place. One factor that did trouble me a bit was that the calibre GP01800 motion on this Laureato Absolute Mild seems to be completed the exact same approach as within the relatively inexpensive Laureato Absolute Mild. True, if one thing isn’t damaged there isn’t any want to repair it. On the identical time, watch collectors admire originality and selection – to it might have been good to see some aesthetic variations between the in any other case very compelling computerized skeletonized actions used within the restricted version Laureato Absolute Mild watches. With that stated, it isn’t actually that massive of a deal.
Components just like the crown and lugs, in addition to the screws, are produced from titanium. Certainly, the dream is to render all of the case components from sapphire crystal. To make an extended story brief, that’s simpler stated than accomplished. The milling know-how to machine blocks of artificial sapphire crystal must be very highly effective as a way to reduce a fabric that’s second solely to supplies like diamonds in hardness. Very small items, or ones with minute particulars, generally tend to shatter in the course of the machining course of, although the ultimate items are normally secure. Which means components like screws and crowns simply can’t be virtually made obtainable in sapphire crystal anytime quickly. That stated, I’d have favored to see this watch have a sapphire crystal (versus metallic) lug construction. Once more, this isn’t a bit deal, however I do assume that if Girard-Perregaux is ever capable of handle a sapphire lug construction for the Laureato Absolute, then it might make for a good cooler watch. The case doesn’t have a lot water resistance, nevertheless — solely 30 meters. So, that doesn’t make for a lot of an precise sports activities watch, even when it wears like one.
The trendy-style arms (that are lume-painted on the ideas) are a great design selection, and I even just like the three-sided subsidiary seconds hand. As a every day watch, this can be a very respectable selection, even thought it’s onerous to not wish to child a watch just like the Laureato Absolute Mild. Recall that scratches are usually not what you need to concern with the case materials (although I can’t say the identical factor for the titanium), however relatively any very onerous impacts. In any other case, sapphire crystal as a watch case materials could possibly be as sensible as ceramic (one other extremely scratch-resistant materials that has lately turn out to be mega-popular as a luxurious watch case possibility).
Extra innovation will nonetheless be vital for artificial sapphire crystal to make it mainstream as a luxurious watch case materials. Whereas sapphire crystals over watch dials are almost ubiquitous, machining them in non-round shapes is the place the complexity appears to return in. So, it’s in fact not true to recommend sapphire crystal is new to luxurious watches, however relatively the usage of it for non-round (lens-like) components of watch instances. Girard-Perregaux, by advantage of the limited-edition nature of this watch and the components it couldn’t produce in sapphire crystal, helps show this level. For now, sapphire crystal instances are nonetheless unique and nonetheless have a barely magical high quality about them on condition that the carrying expertise isn’t like metallic or ceramic — or carbon, for that matter.
The case wears at 44mm-wide, and as you’ll be able to see, it’s a lengthy watch when it comes to the lug-to-lug distance, although its flatter again and wrapping-fitted material and rubber strap assist it put on comfortably on most wrist sizes. Nonetheless, I’d most suggest the Laureato Absolute Mild to these with bigger wrists. The black strap is a snug possibility on its titanium folding deployant, however it isn’t probably the most thrilling when it comes to colour or type. Sure, the darker hues of the anthracite grey dial match with the strap a bit, however I feel the Laureato Absolute Mild would have been a way more playful watch on a lightweight grey or off-white strap. I’m certain Girard-Perregaux makes these identical straps in different colours, so it is perhaps fascinating to see what different choices is perhaps obtainable.
Girard-Perregaux does one thing fascinating with this computerized skeleton motion in that it presents it in a variety of case supplies at completely different value factors. If you happen to recall above, I beforehand reviewed the calibre GP01800 in a metal watch (with matching metal bracelet) with a value of $35,300 USD. That’s the entry-point for this motion, and it goes up from there. Subsequent is the Laureato Skeleton Ceramic in black on an identical bracelet with a price of $40,300 USD. Then, we get into gold territory with the Laureato Skeleton in 18k rose gold on the matching gold bracelet for $66,900 USD. Lastly, this top-level body for the GP01800 motion is a bit bigger in dimension given the Laureato Absolute case form, and should, sadly, cast off a bracelet providing. It’s also a relatively unique restricted version of 88 items and comes with a value of $88,900 USD. Be taught extra on the Girard-Perregaux web site right here.
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