Watch Overview: Zenith Chronomaster Open

I’ve struggled to jot down this evaluate as a result of I’ve struggled to search out flaws with the Zenith Chronomaster Open. Not that there aren’t critiques, and never {that a} evaluate can’t be a full-on gushfest. I’m simply so accustomed to watches—at each worth level and of each sort—having some shortcomings, and whereas the Chronomaster Open might not be for everybody, in my estimation, it appears to do all the things it’s doing very properly. There’s a really minor nit I’ll choose later, however general, my time with this watch was considered one of being impressed each time I put it on. Whereas I by no means had the pleasure of experiencing the earlier iteration of the Chronomaster Open, it appears to me that Zenith has gone proper forward and knocked it out of the park with this up to date model and its smaller case and new motion.

The unique Chronomaster Open was launched in 2003 and has been in steady manufacturing since, with a lot of variants and particular editions (like this Rolling Stones model). The unique iteration had a 42mm case and a decidedly much less refined dial aperture (the eponymous opening). Whereas the 42mm case model wasn’t with out its followers (it took house a GPHG prize in 2004), after 20 years, it was in want of an replace. The results of Zenith’s redesign isn’t a whole makeover that’s resulted in an unrecognizable watch that merely shares its forebear’s title, although. These are refined however significant adjustments: a extra refined dial aperture, the latest El Primero caliber, and a case that displays trendy sizing preferences.

The brand new case sees the Zenith Chronomaster Open decreased to a way more manageable 39.5mm, with a 13.1mm thickness, fairly good for an computerized chronograph and thinner than comparable choices from TAG and Omega. The case design is much like that of different trendy Chronomasters, with a gently curving profile that sees its sides polished and high brushed. The chamfer between the 2 can be polished and has been widened a bit from the earlier era. Everything of the bezel, too, is polished. Frankly, for a sports activities watch—all chronographs might not be sports activities watches, however the Chronomaster assortment actually is—this one is a bit heavy on the shininess, which continuously gave me pause when it was on the wrist. Heck, even the pushers and branded crown are polished! In any case, the expertise on the wrist is one which I actually loved. The proportions, together with the 45.2mm lug-to-lug, have been merely excellent (for my 7-inch wrist), and the curvature of the lugs and the fitted bracelet made the transition to my wrist seamless. I additionally love the indirect ends of the lugs, which slope away from the case.

Just a few different notes on the case. The field sapphire that Zenith makes use of implies that it has a slight classic edge regardless of the remainder of the design being decidedly trendy; it additionally implies that if that they had gone with a flat sapphire, the watch seemingly would’ve clocked in below 13mm. Not a criticism, simply an statement. The bracelet shares the twin ending of the case, however in a extra balanced method with brushed outer hyperlinks and polished middle hyperlinks; the sides of the likes, too, are polished. The clasp regrettably lacks a built-in micro-adjustment mechanism, which is disappointing these days, with TAG, Rolex, and Omega all providing such tech. That stated, as soon as adjusted, the bracelet and its flip-lock closure have been lots snug.

The dial is basically the place the magic occurs, although. You’ve received these beautiful polished, dimensional utilized indices (in truth, all of the metallic on the dial is polished). And also you’ve received this white dial with a refined luster. And naturally, you’ve received the tricolor azurage (that’s the radial grooving) subdials, a nod to the unique A386 El Primero. However wait—these aren’t how they usually look! That’s proper, right here we encounter the “Open” of the Chronomaster Open. The working second register at 9 o’clock has been changed by a transparent hesalite disc, whereas two different circles (overlapping just like the registers) emerge from it to indicate the silicon escape wheel and the steadiness, swinging at a dizzying 10 beats per second. It is a severe aesthetic improve from the previous iterations, which had a elegant body secured by dial-side blued screws and gave a far much less enticing take a look at the interior workings. Now, although, the working seconds is usable, you get the colourful mild present from the silicon escape wheel, and the mesmerizing swing of the steadiness. On high of that, Zenith opted to modify the bridge ending to the identical azurage seen on the subdials, creating better cohesion throughout the dial.

In fact, becoming the watch with the 1/10 chronograph Caliber 3600 might not have necessitated altering what the chronograph reveals, however Zenith can be silly to not put it on the market. So, as a substitute of a conventional chronograph hand and tachymeter ring, you get a horological whirling dervish of a hand whipping across the dial 10 occasions in a second and a scale to match (when it debuted the 3600 within the Chronomaster Unique, the model had the audacity to attempt to cram each tachymeter and 1/10 seconds scales in). The subdials are accordingly adjusted, from the unique’s 60-minute at 3 and 12-hour counter at 9 to 60-second and 60-minute counters, respectively. Personally, I welcome a change. It’s extra thrilling for these very uncommon occasions once I’d really use a chronograph (I’ve by no means “gone to the monitor”), and I really feel {that a} one-hour register is much extra sensible than a 12-hour one. One different contact, I used to be fairly keen on was the black fill on the tails of the again ends and ideas of the fingers, which bookend the lume (which can be on the indices, and satisfactory for a chronograph). I additionally just like the offset emblem, necessitated by the dial apertures. However maybe most of all, I’m gleeful for the dearth of date. You possibly can argue that it’s not a true El Primero with out the wide-set, trapezoidal date window. And also you’d be proper. However I’d argue that historicity however, 4:30 date home windows are virtually all the time horrible, and the El Primero’s has all the time struck me as particularly egregious.

Seen by a sapphire caseback is the most recent iteration of the El Primero motion, the Calibre 3604, a dateless variant of the trendy Calibre 3600. Taking up for the legendary Calibre 400 that reigned supreme for many years (together with within the Rolex Daytona), the 3600 collection introduced a slew of enhancements to the El Primero. By linking the chronograph drive to the escape wheel itself (slightly than the fourth wheel, as did the Calibre 400), the 3600 is ready to time to the closest 1/10 second. Whereas the top of the gear practice sometimes has the least quantity of driving energy left for such a process, Zenith employs a silicon star-spoked escape wheel and distinctive gear design to mitigate this concern and be sure that each the chronograph and the steadiness nonetheless obtain ample vitality.  The 3600 collection maintains the El Primero’s hallmark 5hz fee (36,000vph) however sees the facility reserve elevated from 50 to 60 hours. And whereas this isn’t essentially the most lovely motion to take a look at, the customized rotor and blued column wheel of the chronograph mechanism supply just a few treats, and the cutout base plate that permits for the dial aperture means you might, in idea, spy on somebody by the caseback.

The Zenith Chronomaster Open is an excellent instance of how manufacturers ought to revise a mannequin: keep the essence and common design however make significant enhancements (not simply adjustments) the place you possibly can and the place it’s applicable. As I stated, I struggled to search out issues I didn’t like about this watch. Extra than simply not being unhealthy, by eradicating the date, it solved the primary concern I’ve all the time had with the El Primero. On high of that, you get a clear, splendidly executed dial aperture that sacrifices no performance or legibility (alright, perhaps the working seconds suffers, however who cares?), and a show-your-friends degree of enjoyable with the 1/10 seconds chrono hand. And all of it is available in a way more manageable bundle! Actually, what’s to not like right here? The Zenith Chronomaster Open is priced at $10,000 USD and is offered straight from model boutiques or approved sellers. For a similar worth, you may as well go for a black dial, or for $21,300, you possibly can seize a strong 18k rose gold case with a blue strap. For extra info, please go to the model’s web site.

Needed Data:
Model: Zenith
Mannequin: Chronomaster Open (Ref 03.3300.3604/69.M3300)
Value: $10,000 USD
Measurement: 39.5mm-wide, 13.1mm-thick, 45.2mm lug-to-lug distance, 20mm lugs
When reviewer would personally put on it: I can’t consider a time not to put on this watch. Possibly any exercise with vital harm potential, or water sports activities. However another time, I’d be pleased with this on the wrist.
Good friend we’d suggest it to first: My finest good friend. And your finest good friend.
Finest attribute of watch: Execution of the open dial.
Worst attribute of watch: Mediocre lume, I suppose, however you realize… no matter.