Over the past two weeks, on this first installment and on this second one, we now have devoted our Sunday posts to indie watchmakers from outdoors of Switzerland. And although the overwhelming majority of watches are produced, or use elements produced in Switzerland, why ought to it cease there? The attract of “Swiss Made” is comprehensible, however with the fitting mindset and the fitting individuals, watch may be produced anyplace. With that in thoughts, it’s time for our third and last (for now in all probability) rundown of a few of the coolest non-Swiss impartial watchmakers.
Ketelaars – the Netherlands
Name us chauvinistic, however sure, we’re as soon as once more together with a Dutch indie watchmaker. In recent times, our little nation has been bustling with thrilling issues within the watchmaking business, which we fortunately share with all of you. One such watchmaker is Stefan Ketelaars, a younger man from the south of the Netherlands, who creates intricate 3D shows.
His 3D Time in Movement and 3D Terra in Movement each have a 42mm broad metal case which is fitted with a extremely domed sapphire crystal to disclose the intriguing mechanics mounted on the dial. Utilizing a closely modified ETA 6497 as a base, he provides inverted steadiness wheels, rotating spherical globes and extra. The ending is finished in-house and divulges how he has developed his talent these previous couple of years. We see anglage, frosting, brushing, sharpening, hand-painting and extra. His work begins at EUR 4.800 earlier than taxes for the 3D Time in Movement. Be affected person although, as he produces solely 15 watches per 12 months and has a protracted ready listing in the intervening time.
Fast Details – 42mm diameter – stainless-steel case, polished – domed sapphire crystal – flattened onion-style crown – sapphire crystal caseback – inverted steadiness wheel or 3D spherical globe – off-centred dial with heat-blued palms – closely modified high-grade ETA 6497 – conventional ending strategies like anglage and frosting – 46h energy reserve – from EUR 4,800 excl. taxes upwards
For extra info, please go to KetelaarsWatches.com
Kikuchi Nakagawa – Japan
We not too long ago got here throughout Kikuchi Nakagawa, a watchmaking duo from Japan and easily needed to share it with all of you. What struck us was the unbelievable consideration to element, much more so the extent of ending. Though not all the pieces is finished in-house, because the motion is outsourced, for example, your entire case, dial and palms are made in accordance with the best requirements.
The Murakomo is essentially the most classical of the 2 fashions Kikuchi Nakagawa presently affords. It has a definite Calatrava-style design, with a slim and refined case. It’s totally black-polished, one thing that’s generally used for motion elements or palms. The result’s placing, particularly mixed with the sculpted spade-and-whip palms. The micro-rotor motion is sourced from Vaucher Fleurier and is left untouched. No difficulty, because the 5400-series of actions appears fairly good. At USD 21,000 with out taxes, it actually isn’t an affordable watch.
For extra info, please go to Kikuchi-Nakagawa.com
Fast Details – 36.mm x 8.5mm – black-polished stainless-steel Calatrava case – sapphire crystal on either side – deep black or white dial made by Comblemine – pad-printed Breguet numerals – black-polished spade and whip hour and minute palms – small seconds subdial – Vaucher Fleurier VMF 5401 micro-rotor motion – 30mm diameter – 21,600vph – 48h energy reserve – crocodile leather-based strap – USD 21,000 excl. taxes
For extra info, please go to Kikuchi-Nakagawa.com
Roger W. Smith – United Kingdom
Briton Roger W. Smith is way out of your common watchmaker. This former scholar of George Daniels is likely one of the most highly-regarded watchmakers on the planet, and rightfully so. After learning watchmaking on the Manchester Faculty of Horology he labored alongside his mentor on the Millennium Sequence of watches, earlier than embarking on his personal in 2001. His watches are nearly totally crafted by palms, and in very low volumes solely.
The Nice Britain watch you see right here has a home made three-piece platinum case with a novel motion created particularly for it. The three-quarter plate with floral hand-engraved barrel bridge is typical of British watchmaking. It encompasses a single wheel, George Daniels Co-Axial escapement with a free-sprung steadiness, all developed by Mr Smith himself. The dial has an off-centre union flag with guilloché ornament, particular person utilized indices and plaques, and flame-blued purple palms. Over roughly 20 years, round 100 watches have left Roger W. Smith’s atelier, every one taking as much as ten months of labour and costing upwards of GBP 180,000.
For extra info, go to RWSmithWatches.com
Fast Details – 40mm diameter – handmade three-piece platinum case – sapphire crystal on either side – offset Union Jack dial with guilloché ornament – particular person utilized indices and plaques – palms heat-blued to a violet shade – distinctive handmade motion – three-quarter plate with floral hand-engraved barrel cowl – single wheel George Daniels co-axial escapement with free-sprung steadiness wheel – 23 jewels – gilded and frosted hand-engraved plates – flame-coloured purple and blue screws – distinctive piece, no worth accessible
Kudoke – Germany
Whereas Germany is dwelling to a lot of prolific, high-end watchmaking producers, one of many smaller, very fascinating indies is Stefan Kudoke. After graduating with honours, Stefan labored for a number of high-end watch producers, together with Glashütte Unique, Breguet, Blancpain and Omega. Following the achievement of the Grasp Watchmakers Certificates at simply 22 years of age, he now makes watches beneath his personal title.
Stefan Kudoke’s watchmaking may be categorized into two completely different types; classical with a twist, or elaborately skeletonized and adorned. The Kudoke HANDwerk 1 falls beneath the primary class and is a restrained, elegant watch. The case is just 39mm broad and 9,5mm skinny, absolutely polished, with a stepped bezel. The silver dial has a frosted end with blued palms and a small seconds subdial. The Kudoke Kaliber 1, collectively developed with Habring², is a hand-wound motion with ample quantities of ornament. Contemplating the extent of expertise, it’s priced comparatively cheap at EUR 6,303 earlier than taxes.
For extra info, please go to Kudoke.eu
Fast Details – 39mm x 9.5mm – stainless-steel case, polished – stepped bezel – sapphire crystal back and front – silver dial with frosted end – blued metal palms – utilized minute observe, small seconds subdial observe and Kudoke plaque – Kaliber 1, collectively developed with Habring² – guide winding – 18 jewels – 28,800vph – 46h energy reserve – hours, minutes, small seconds – EUR 6,303 earlier than taxes
Masahiro Kikuno – Japan
Watchmaking in Japan is finished in another way than in different international locations, that a lot is obvious by now. The following Japanese indie watchmaker is Masahiro Kikuno, a model we featured in an episode of our Collector’s Sequence. This younger man is already inducted as a member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants and has a novel philosophy to watchmaking. As @Watch_Time_It_Is defined, he honours time together with his mostly-handmade Wadokei watch, based mostly on an historical time measuring instrument. Six daylight and 6 night-time hours slowly transfer across the dial in accordance with the seasons.
The Shakubou, or New Moon, is one other certainly one of his creations and the one which was the point of interest in our interview. This made to order watch makes use of a particular alloy referred to as Kuro-Shibuichi, composed of copper, silver and gold. Because the base materials is copper, it should get a novel patina over time. The dial may be absolutely personalized with conventional Japanese components and a mixture of supplies. On this case, it encompasses a Nanoko sample, made with a collection of small, hand-hammered circles. The Calibre mk17 motion is essentially handmade, utilizing conventional strategies and machines. Each part of this watch displays pure craftsmanship to a degree few can grasp.
For extra info, please go to MasahiroKikuno.jp
Fast Details – 38mm diameter (bespoke sizes attainable) – Kuro-Shibuichi and white gold case – sapphire crystal on either side – 30m water-resistance – handmade bespoke dial designs attainable – handmade palms – Calibre mk17 hand-wound motion – made in-house, by hand – 22 jewels – 28,800vph – central hours and minutes, moon section – annual manufacturing of 4 watches – JPY 5,000,000 (earlier than taxes, roughly EUR 38,200 on the time of publication)
Ressence – Belgium
Ressence is likely one of the most original manufacturers within the business, for a number of causes. First off, the unconventional but fascinating show of time on movement. Secondly, it makes use of a magnetic transmission in some watches, regardless of the very fact it’s one of many arch enemies of mechanical watchmaking. And thirdly, they seem like nothing else available on the market, interval.
The most recent to return from the artistic genius minds of Ressence is the Kind 3 BBB, a completely blacked-out model of its oil-filled, distortion-free pebble. It was initially launched in 2013 because the Kind 3, which gained the model the Horological Revelation prize on the GPGH the identical 12 months. This BBB model is the final in line and has a black DLC polished titanium case of 44mm throughout. Inside is an ETA 2824/2 base motion, linked to the in-house developed ROCS module by way of the aforementioned magnetic transmission. It will likely be produced in 2022 solely, with a worth of EUR 36,500.
For extra info, please go to RessenceWatches.com
Fast Details – 44mm x 15mm – black DLC-coated titanium case – absolutely polished – two domed sapphire crystals with AR coating – black with white dial – biaxial satellites for hours, thermal gauge and days of the week – white minute hand – rotating date on facet of case – indications stuffed with inexperienced Tremendous-LumiNova – ETA 2824/2 base, in-house ROCS module with magnetic transmission – anthracite strap with honeycomb sample – produced for 1 12 months solely – EUR 36,500