Why I Purchased It: Classic Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 Huge Eye Chronograph – Reprise

Whereas I’m primarily drawn to modern watches, and particularly the work of right this moment’s main impartial watchmakers, occasionally I discover myself irresistibly drawn to a bit from a bygone period. Generally, as with my Patek Philippe Reference 1526, this occurs very a lot on the spot, however occasionally the method unfolds over time.

That is the story of my pursuit, and eventual seize, of a basic classic watch: a Kind 20 “huge eye” flyback chronograph manufactured by Mathey-Tissot.

Classic jewel: Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 huge eye chronograph

Why – and the way – I purchased it and the way it suits

I’d been conscious of the “huge eye” search for some time, however by means of the lens of up to date watches as I’d had alternatives to deal with examples of Breguet’s current Kind XXI and XXII choices and located them intriguing. The true eye-opener, although, was a buddy’s classic Kind XX seen at a lunch gathering of our NorCal Gang a number of years in the past; there was one thing concerning the boldness of that piece that basically acquired my juices flowing.

Mouthwatering: Mathey-Tissot huge eye Kind 20

In 2016, I had the chance throughout a pre-auction preview with Phillips to deal with an necessary Breguet Kind XX instance believed to have been introduced to three-time System One world champion Jack Brabham by his sponsor Esso and engraved accordingly on its case again.

The watch was in excellent situation and the provenance was thrilling, however what I nonetheless keep in mind is the implausible, crisp-yet-smooth really feel of the chronograph actuators and the authoritative clicking of the winding mechanism of the watch’s Valjoux 225 motion. I used to be fully hooked and resolved then and there so as to add one to my assortment.

It’s good to be champ: case again of Jack Brabham’s Breguet Kind XX (picture courtesy Phillips)

Sadly for me, that watch offered far above my finances. However I had one other swing at Phillips’ famed “Successful Icons” public sale of October 2017 at a second wonderful instance – which offered for much more than the Brabham watch.

I used to be beginning to assume I’d have to surrender on my quest when in 2018 I realized one thing that savvy classic collectors had identified all alongside: the classic Breguet-labeled Kind XX watches (and the Girard-Perregaux examples as nicely) have been manufactured by Mathey-Tissot, who had additionally made a small variety of the identical references beneath their very own identify. The perfect information: these items labeled with the model of their precise maker offered for half, or much less, the costs at public sale loved by the Breguet-branded items.

So in December of 2018 I discovered myself at Christie’s in New York bidding on a Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 in opposition to famous classic seller Eric Wind, who pushed nicely previous the excessive estimate together with his bids till I lastly yielded. Foiled once more!

Mine ultimately: Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 huge eye

That watch was very a lot on my thoughts over the next months (as was the belief that in precept, at the very least, one ought to all the time be capable to outbid a seller at public sale as they should construct in their very own margin on high of the worth they pay) till not too long ago when Wind contacted me to let me know {that a} completely different – and probably much more mint – Mathey-Tissot watch was out there. This time I made no mistake and given the standard of this instance I’m more than happy that I waited.

Particular supply: the creator’s Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 huge eye arrives

By way of my pal Terry’s assortment portfolio classification, this one is a Foundational piece for me – a watch that may be a core ingredient of a group over the lengthy haul – and it additionally sits fairly near the frontier with the Enjoyable class, though its worth and historic significance maintain it on the Foundational aspect of the road.

Foundational watch: supply day wristshot of the Mathey-Tissot Kind 20

Why it’s not a Kind XX – however I don’t care

I’m not going to take you thru the historic origins of the Kind XX as a French navy specification taken up by a number of producers, together with Mathey-Tissot; there are a variety of fantastic items of scholarship on the subject you’ll be able to try, together with an intensive retrospective of the Breguet-branded items to the present day and a fairly complete rationalization and stock of the identified three-register Kind XX watches that I’ve pored over various instances.

That mentioned, as soon as I started posting a couple of photographs of my “Kind XX” watch on Instagram I began receiving messages from classic lovers stating their objections to my characterization. Whereas the unique navy Kind XX specification appears to be misplaced to historical past (as confirmed by a great buddy with shut hyperlinks to Breguet), the Kind XXI spec appears fairly clear: to satisfy the specification the watch ought to have two registers for operating seconds and minutes relatively than the three registers (together with an hour totalizer) such because the one on my watch.

Look ahead to a forthcoming piece by Quill & Pad’s resident flieger professional Bhanu Chopra, which ought to clear up a few of this nomenclature.

Three-register Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 huge eye flyback chronograph

Some of us even urged that to be a “Kind XX” the watch needed to be an precise military-issue watch and that civilian variations like mine weren’t worthy of consideration. Whereas I’m usually  a fan of watch arcana and love to debate it with my mates, I’ll go away it to the consultants on this subject to hash it out. Whether or not you name my watch a Kind XX, a Kind 20 (as some literature characterizes non-Breguet labeled items), or only a huge eye flyback (the flyback chrono being a function that’s a part of all Kind XX watches), it’s a fantastic watch.

Why I adore it

Quite a lot of my rationale for loving this piece is woven by means of the narrative above, however there are a couple of key factors to spotlight behind my fondness for this specific watch.

Valjoux Caliber 225: The Kind XX sequence watches have been manufactured with quite a lot of flyback actions over time; the Brabham watch that I fell in love with utilized the Valjoux 225, a modified Valjoux 22 with the addition of a flyback perform and hour subregister, and my watch has the identical caliber ticking away inside.

Wrist presence: At 38.5 mm (my measurement appears extra like 38, however I’ll defer to the literature) this isn’t an enormous watch, and also you would possibly anticipate the black dial and pronounced bezel to make it put on small. Nevertheless it appears solely modern in measurement and heft when seen on the wrist, and the chunky profile view is absolutely engaging to my eye.

Assertive presence: Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 huge eye

Three registers: From what I can inform, there are numerous lovers preferring the two-register look, however I particularly needed a three-register piece.

Situation, situation, situation: With regards to classic, the highest collectors are all the time preaching situation as the important thing to long-term happiness. I’m guessing that’s true, however within the case of this specific watch, its wonderful general situation is a giant plus in a number of methods. I’m not a fan of the “tropical” or “spiderweb” dial appears, and so I don’t need to squint every time I have a look at the watch face to defend my eyes. And the crisp situation of the case, crown, and bezel permits me to get pleasure from components such because the distinct contours of the lugs.

Situation issues: lug and bezel particulars, Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 chronograph

Fifteen-index huge eye, propeller hand: Not all Kind XX fashion watches function the “huge eye” look during which the chronograph minute counter is considerably bigger in diameter than the operating seconds. Among the many huge eye watches, some have 30-index minute totalizers (usually with the three, 6, and 9 minutes elongated) with a skinny chronograph minute hand relatively than the 15-index subdial with propeller-shaped hand that I a lot desire. Whereas I’m on arms, some Kind XX items have Dauphine hour and minute arms relatively than the syringe arms on my piece – I’ll keep on with mine.

Early manufacturing: Maybe it is a private quirk, however my watch’s serial quantity locations it on the early finish of the manufacturing of Mathey-branded items, and I fairly like that. The serial quantity is plainly seen in crisp aid on the case again; when you’re questioning why I haven’t proven that till now, it’s as a result of there’s nothing a lot occurring again there.

I normally spin off the again of my solid-backed watches to provide you a have a look at the motion, however on this case I’m considerably cautious of getting any contact with the radium contained within the case and so gave up on opening the watch after giving the again a half-hearted twist. And, yeah, I see the dent – nothing’s excellent!

Case again, Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 flyback chronograph

Maker’s mark: Maybe I’ll be accused of creating advantage out of (monetary) necessity, however I desire having a Mathey-Tissot labeled piece relatively than a Mathey-Tissot watch branded as Breguet or Girard-Perregaux. There’s a little bit of an insider twist that I like, and it’s price enduring the “gee, that appears like a Breguet” feedback that pop up any time I put up a photograph on social media.

Dial element, Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 huge eye, exhibiting maker’s identify and globe and propeller emblem

Any quibbles?

Generally the small foibles of a brand new watch are obvious instantly, and different instances they take some time to emerge. Thus far, I’m not discovering a lot to dislike about this piece! I suppose that in an ideal world, the bezel would click on relatively than glide easily, however that’s simply being choosy. And I’d like to see the previously luminous indices actually glow, however that solely occurs after I hit the radium bits with my UV gentle.

There’s additionally the matter of the 15-index chronograph minute register on a watch whose Valjoux 225 motion has a 30-minute chronograph. There’s an honest quantity of on-line dialogue about this, however amongst others alphahands.com notes, “I imagine that given the comparatively excessive variety of items we see with 15-minute design however operating at half-hour, that these are unique to the watch (similar holds for the opposite manufacturers of Kind XX . . .).” Eric Wind additionally views this as appropriate, and I’m inclined to belief my consultants; it’s an attention-grabbing anomaly, although.

If something, the superb situation of my watch is one among its few limitations; I’d like to be on the market beating it round, however I’ve seen a Breguet-dialed watch with a crack throughout the dial and am a bit cautious of inflicting any related harm. And I’d hate to place a giant dent into the lugs or case band.

That’s a danger I’ll have to simply accept, although, as I discover this piece calling to me from the watch drawer very often and it’s robust to withstand!

Irresistible wristwear: Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 chronograph on the creator’s wrist

I’ll stay up for your feedback on this piece, flyback aviator chronographs together with the Kind XX, Breitling AVI, German fliegers, and others, and your personal experiences with shopping for and sporting extra ruggedly designed classic watches within the feedback part beneath.

Within the meantime, completely satisfied sporting!

Parting shot: Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 huge eye three-register flyback chronograph

For extra data, try www.thespringbar.com/blogs/guides/breguet-type-20-civilian-generation-1-2-and-3.

Fast Information Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 three-register chronograph
Case: 38.5 mm, metal case with rotating coin-edge bezel; domed plexiglass crystal; closed screw-on case again
Dial and arms: pebble-grained black dial with calmly grooved subdials; white-printed model identify, emblem, and markers; luminous painted radium hours and main chronograph minute indices; white-painted arms with luminous-treated syringe hour, minute, and chronograph second hand
Motion: manually wound Valjoux Caliber 225; 40-hour energy reserve; 18,000 vph/2.5 H frequency; column wheel flyback chronograph with semi-instantaneous chronograph minutes
Features: hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds; chronograph seconds, 30-minute (15-index) and 12-hour chronograph subdials
Value: 2018 public sale value for comparable Mathey-Tissot three-register watch $22,500 (Christie’s)
Manufacturing years: circa 1959 to Sixties

* This text was first revealed on October 9, 2020 at Why I Purchased It: Classic Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 Huge Eye Chronograph.

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