Whereas I’m primarily drawn to modern watches, and specifically the work of at the moment’s main impartial watchmakers, every now and then I discover myself irresistibly drawn to a chunk from a bygone period. Generally, as with my Patek Philippe Reference 1526, this occurs very a lot on the spot, however every now and then the method unfolds over time.
That is the story of my pursuit, and eventual seize, of a basic classic watch: a Kind 20 “large eye” flyback chronograph manufactured by Mathey-Tissot.
Classic jewel: Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 large eye chronograph
Why – and the way – I purchased it and the way it matches
I’d been conscious of the “large eye” search for some time, however via the lens of latest watches as I’d had alternatives to deal with examples of Breguet’s latest Kind XXI and XXII choices and located them intriguing. The actual eye-opener, although, was a buddy’s classic Kind XX seen at a lunch gathering of our NorCal Gang a number of years in the past; there was one thing in regards to the boldness of that piece that actually obtained my juices flowing.
Mouthwatering: Mathey-Tissot large eye Kind 20
In 2016, I had the chance throughout a pre-auction preview with Phillips to deal with an necessary Breguet Kind XX instance believed to have been offered to three-time Formulation One world champion Jack Brabham by his sponsor Esso and engraved accordingly on its case again.
The watch was in superb situation and the provenance was thrilling, however what I nonetheless bear in mind is the implausible, crisp-yet-smooth really feel of the chronograph actuators and the authoritative clicking of the winding mechanism of the watch’s Valjoux 225 motion. I used to be fully hooked and resolved then and there so as to add one to my assortment.
It’s good to be champ: case again of Jack Brabham’s Breguet Kind XX (photograph courtesy Phillips)
Sadly for me, that watch bought far above my finances. However I had one other swing at Phillips’ famed “Successful Icons” public sale of October 2017 at a second wonderful instance – which bought for much more than the Brabham watch.
I used to be beginning to assume I’d have to surrender on my quest when in 2018 I discovered one thing that savvy classic collectors had recognized all alongside: the classic Breguet-labeled Kind XX watches (and the Girard-Perregaux examples as effectively) have been manufactured by Mathey-Tissot, who had additionally made a small variety of the identical references below their very own title. The very best information: these items labeled with the model of their precise maker bought for half, or much less, the costs at public sale loved by the Breguet-branded items.
So in December of 2018 I discovered myself at Christie’s in New York bidding on a Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 towards famous classic vendor Eric Wind, who pushed effectively previous the excessive estimate together with his bids till I lastly yielded. Foiled once more!
Mine ultimately: Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 large eye
That watch was very a lot on my thoughts over the next months (as was the conclusion that in precept, not less than, one ought to at all times be capable to outbid a vendor at public sale as they should construct in their very own margin on high of the value they pay) till lately when Wind contacted me to let me know {that a} completely different – and probably much more mint – Mathey-Tissot watch was obtainable. This time I made no mistake and given the standard of this instance I’m more than happy that I waited.
Particular supply: the writer’s Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 large eye arrives
By way of my pal Terry’s assortment portfolio classification, this one is a Foundational piece for me – a watch that may be a core ingredient of a set over the lengthy haul – and it additionally sits fairly near the frontier with the Enjoyable class, though its worth and historic significance maintain it on the Foundational facet of the road.
Foundational watch: supply day wristshot of the Mathey-Tissot Kind 20
Why it’s not a Kind XX – however I don’t care
I’m not going to take you thru the historic origins of the Kind XX as a French army specification taken up by a number of producers, together with Mathey-Tissot; there are a selection of fantastic items of scholarship on the subject you’ll be able to try, together with a radical retrospective of the Breguet-branded items to the present day and a fairly complete rationalization and stock of the recognized three-register Kind XX watches that I’ve pored over various occasions.
That mentioned, as soon as I started posting a couple of photographs of my “Kind XX” watch on Instagram I began receiving messages from classic fans declaring their objections to my characterization. Whereas the unique army Kind XX specification appears to be misplaced to historical past (as confirmed by buddy with shut hyperlinks to Breguet), the Kind XXI spec appears fairly clear: to fulfill the specification the watch ought to have two registers for operating seconds and minutes fairly than the three registers (together with an hour totalizer) such because the one on my watch.
Look ahead to a forthcoming piece by Quill & Pad’s resident flieger professional Bhanu Chopra, which ought to clear up a few of this nomenclature.
Three-register Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 large eye flyback chronograph
Some people even urged that to be a “Kind XX” the watch needed to be an precise military-issue watch and that civilian variations like mine weren’t worthy of consideration. Whereas I’m typically a fan of watch arcana and love to debate it with my associates, I’ll go away it to the specialists on this subject to hash it out. Whether or not you name my watch a Kind XX, a Kind 20 (as some literature characterizes non-Breguet labeled items), or only a large eye flyback (the flyback chrono being a function that’s a part of all Kind XX watches), it’s an incredible watch.
Why I adore it
Lots of my rationale for loving this piece is woven via the narrative above, however there are a couple of key factors to spotlight behind my fondness for this explicit watch.
Valjoux Caliber 225: The Kind XX collection watches have been manufactured with quite a lot of flyback actions over time; the Brabham watch that I fell in love with utilized the Valjoux 225, a modified Valjoux 22 with the addition of a flyback perform and hour subregister, and my watch has the identical caliber ticking away inside.
Wrist presence: At 38.5 mm (my measurement appears extra like 38, however I’ll defer to the literature) this isn’t an enormous watch, and also you may count on the black dial and pronounced bezel to make it put on small. However it appears totally modern in dimension and heft when seen on the wrist, and the chunky profile view is absolutely enticing to my eye.
Assertive presence: Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 large eye
Three registers: From what I can inform, there are a lot of fans preferring the two-register look, however I particularly needed a three-register piece.
Situation, situation, situation: In relation to classic, the highest collectors are at all times preaching situation as the important thing to long-term happiness. I’m guessing that’s true, however within the case of this explicit watch, its wonderful general situation is a giant plus in a number of methods. I’m not a fan of the “tropical” or “spiderweb” dial appears to be like, and so I don’t need to squint every time I take a look at the watch face to defend my eyes. And the crisp situation of the case, crown, and bezel permits me to get pleasure from components such because the distinct contours of the lugs.
Situation issues: lug and bezel particulars, Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 chronograph
Fifteen-index large eye, propeller hand: Not all Kind XX fashion watches function the “large eye” look wherein the chronograph minute counter is considerably bigger in diameter than the operating seconds. Among the many large eye watches, some have 30-index minute totalizers (usually with the three, 6, and 9 minutes elongated) with a skinny chronograph minute hand fairly than the 15-index subdial with propeller-shaped hand that I a lot favor. Whereas I’m on arms, some Kind XX items have Dauphine hour and minute arms fairly than the syringe arms on my piece – I’ll follow mine.
Early manufacturing: Maybe it is a private quirk, however my watch’s serial quantity locations it on the early finish of the manufacturing of Mathey-branded items, and I fairly like that. The serial quantity is plainly seen in crisp reduction on the case again; should you’re questioning why I haven’t proven that till now, it’s as a result of there’s nothing a lot occurring again there.
I often spin off the again of my solid-backed watches to offer you a take a look at the motion, however on this case I’m considerably cautious of getting any contact with the radium contained within the case and so gave up on opening the watch after giving the again a half-hearted twist. And, yeah, I see the dent – nothing’s good!
Case again, Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 flyback chronograph
Maker’s mark: Maybe I’ll be accused of creating advantage out of (monetary) necessity, however I favor having a Mathey-Tissot labeled piece fairly than a Mathey-Tissot watch branded as Breguet or Girard-Perregaux. There’s a little bit of an insider twist that I like, and it’s price enduring the “gee, that appears like a Breguet” feedback that pop up any time I put up a photograph on social media.
Dial element, Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 large eye, displaying maker’s title and globe and propeller emblem
Any quibbles?
Generally the small foibles of a brand new watch are obvious instantly, and different occasions they take some time to emerge. Up to now, I’m not discovering a lot to dislike about this piece! I suppose that in an ideal world, the bezel would click on fairly than glide easily, however that’s simply being choosy. And I’d like to see the previously luminous indices actually glow, however that solely occurs after I hit the radium bits with my UV mild.
There’s additionally the matter of the 15-index chronograph minute register on a watch whose Valjoux 225 motion has a 30-minute chronograph. There’s an honest quantity of on-line dialogue about this, however amongst others alphahands.com notes, “I consider that given the comparatively excessive variety of items we see with 15-minute design however operating at half-hour, that these are authentic to the watch (identical holds for the opposite manufacturers of Kind XX . . .).” Eric Wind additionally views this as right, and I’m inclined to belief my specialists; it’s an fascinating anomaly, although.
If something, the wonderful situation of my watch is considered one of its few limitations; I’d like to be on the market beating it round, however I’ve seen a Breguet-dialed watch with a crack throughout the dial and am a bit cautious of inflicting any comparable injury. And I’d hate to place a giant dent into the lugs or case band.
That’s a threat I’ll have to simply accept, although, as I discover this piece calling to me from the watch drawer very often and it’s powerful to withstand!
Irresistible wristwear: Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 chronograph on the writer’s wrist
I’ll stay up for your feedback on this piece, flyback aviator chronographs together with the Kind XX, Breitling AVI, German fliegers, and others, and your personal experiences with shopping for and sporting extra ruggedly designed classic watches within the feedback part beneath.
Within the meantime, glad sporting!
Parting shot: Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 large eye three-register flyback chronograph
For extra info, try www.thespringbar.com/blogs/guides/breguet-type-20-civilian-generation-1-2-and-3.
Fast Details Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 three-register chronograph
Case: 38.5 mm, metal case with rotating coin-edge bezel; domed plexiglass crystal; closed screw-on case again
Dial and arms: pebble-grained black dial with evenly grooved subdials; white-printed model title, emblem, and markers; luminous painted radium hours and main chronograph minute indices; white-painted arms with luminous-treated syringe hour, minute, and chronograph second hand
Motion: manually wound Valjoux Caliber 225; 40-hour energy reserve; 18,000 vph/2.5 H frequency; column wheel flyback chronograph with semi-instantaneous chronograph minutes
Capabilities: hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds; chronograph seconds, 30-minute (15-index) and 12-hour chronograph subdials
Value: 2018 public sale worth for comparable Mathey-Tissot three-register watch $22,500 (Christie’s)
Manufacturing years: circa 1959 to Sixties
* This text was first revealed on October 9, 2020 at Why I Purchased It: Classic Mathey-Tissot Kind 20 Large Eye Chronograph.
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