That is the story of a daily-wear watch: the Tsunami by Japanese unbiased watchmaker Hajime Asaoka.
It’s not a “beater” because it’s too fantastically made for that description, and a few of us justifiably take offense at characterizing a five-figure expenditure in these phrases. However it’s a watch that I think I shall be sporting rather a lot and in a wide range of settings.
The creator’s personalized Tsunami by Hajime Asaoka
How the Hajime Asaoka Tsunami matches and why I purchased it
In my pal Terry’s taxonomy of watch gathering, the Tsunami is fairly clearly a “patronage” watch: one which celebrates the ingenuity and arduous work of a number one unbiased maker and helps his or her ongoing self-expression.
And it is a attractive piece! However there was one thing else that drew me to the Tsunami: its capability to function a flexible workhorse that might be worn for enterprise and leisure and that would appear utterly at house whatever the event.
Straight to the again: motion view, Hajime Asaoka Tsunami
Relating to defining what constitutes an ideal “daily-wear” watch, I’m positive that every of us has his or her personal standards and needs. For a lot of, the necessity for robustness is on the high of the listing, and so there are lots of Casio G-Shocks and Rolex Submariners on the market. For others, the will for one thing dressier however nonetheless purposeful and considerably refined helps to account for the recognition of Jaeger-LeCoultre Reversos and easy Patek Philippe Calatravas.
Maybe someplace in between are items that span the hole between sporty and dressy, such because the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.
Once I first noticed a photograph of the Tsunami in 2012, it instantly occurred to me that this was a watch that I may think about proudly owning and sporting for a really very long time with its good-looking and rugged proportions, fairly wearable at 37 mm in diameter, sturdy in metal, and with each putting seems to be and fascinating technical options comparable to its 16 mm titanium stability.
First of a line: Asaoka Tsunami No. 001 (picture courtesy Hajime Asaoka)
Shopping for the Hajime Asaoka Tsunami: the journey
And so, the hunt started!
One of many nice paradoxes of coping with Asaoka-san has been that whereas he lives his life fairly visibly by frequent and sometimes fairly detailed Fb and Instagram posts (on each skilled and private issues), till his pretty latest relationship with enterprise affiliate Noritake Sakurai he has been just about inconceivable to contact, not only for me however for a lot of annoyed would-be collectors world wide.
Elusive prey: Hajime Asaoka Tsunami
Message after message sailed off into the void over a interval of virtually three years till early 2015, when by a really fortuitous coincidence I despatched a message to a Japanese collector pal who simply occurred to be sitting subsequent to Asaoka within the AHCI sales space at Baselworld!
My variety pal took on the function of middleman, and thru some matches and begins (together with a failed try to order two similar Tsunamis as a pair of “buddy watches” with a great pal from Australia) I used to be lastly in a position to lock in a subscription and place a deposit with supply promised for 2016.
Early mockup by the creator, with simplified brand and crimson index at 12 o’clock
As a part of the specification course of, we handed quite a few potential choices forwards and backwards, together with the one proven above for dial designs easier than these on Tsunamis quantity 001 (pictured earlier on this article) and 002.
I used to be eager to have a quite simple and sober dial-side look with out the “16mm Titanium Stability” labeling of No. 001, and far easier than the Deco-style look of No. 002 with its index at 12 o’clock harking back to an inverted NTT Docomo Tower.
Placing, however not for me: dial of Asaoka Tsunami No. 002 (picture courtesy tokeibegin.jp)
For higher or worse, one of many large watch manufacturing teams solved the issue of the “titanium stability” labeling for me by asserting a patent on the usage of that metallic for watch balances; as Asaoka was in no place to afford a combat on the subject, a while was wanted whereas he redesigned the motion to include a 15 mm metal stability.
After which, extra time handed. Fairly a little bit of it, actually, together with a complete yr that Asaoka dedicated to the design of his splendid chronograph however throughout which he didn’t make my watch – or so far as I can inform some other watch.
This one’s for you: plates and bridges of the creator’s Tsunami proven in a Fb put up made by Hajime Asaoka
Whereas I by no means had any worries in any respect that my piece may not be forthcoming, as you possibly can think about I used to be starting to get a bit impatient when eventually, slowly however absolutely, Fb posts started to emerge displaying the fabrication of my watch and describing the enhancements relative to the primary Tsunamis that Asaoka was making to my instance, importantly together with new approaches to dial making and printing of the indices.
Dial clean of the creator’s Hajime Asaoka Tsunami crafted from German silver (picture courtesy Hajime Asaoka)
Lastly, at Baselworld 2018 the second arrived: a pleasant dinner with Asaoka, Sakurai, and longtime watch pal Michael at which I used to be offered eventually with my Tsunami – and a request.
Asaoka was going to take part within the Watchmakers: The Masters Of Artwork Horology exhibitions of unbiased watchmaking in Rome, New York, Hong Kong, and London. Would possibly I be prepared to lend my look ahead to the tour?
Simple come, straightforward go: world tour for the creator’s Asaoka Tsunami (unique ebook cowl picture by Man Lucas de Peslouan)
And simply that shortly, “incoming” became “outgoing” till, six months later, Sakurai got here to California with a totally refreshed model of my look ahead to a “re-delivery” lunch with some nice mates.
Noritake Sakurai evaluations the Tsunami’s guarantee with GaryG (picture courtesy AllenS)
Why I really like the Hajime Asaoka Tsunami
I’d by no means even seen a Tsunami in particular person after I ordered mine, and after such a protracted wait the concern is at all times that actuality gained’t stay as much as one’s hopes. However what I really like essentially the most about my Tsunami is that it turned out to be higher – cleaner, sharper, extra stable – than I’d anticipated.
Lights, digital camera, motion: Tsunami No. 005 by Hajime Asaoka
The case, made by Asaoka, has clear shapes and sharp edges, and the standard of each the sharpening on the brilliant surfaces and brushing on the case band is great.
Rear profile view of the Asaoka Tsunami
The dial is massively improved from Asaoka-san’s first items; as a substitute of being made up of a separate outer ring and a rough-surfaced matte central insert, the subtly domed one-piece German silver dial is now full of a number of layers of enamel on the outer ring and incorporates a glassy interior circle created from two blended colours of ceramic clay.
The “zen backyard” floor of the seconds subdial is the visible icing on the cake of this small treasure beneath curved sapphire crystal.
Dome-o arigato: domed floor of the Tsunami dial (picture courtesy Hajime Asaoka)
The printed indices are one other nice story, properly raised by a number of purposes of a combination of inks developed by Asaoka and utilized with a gelatin tampon he makes himself utilizing a shot glass as a mildew!
Printing tampon and mildew from an Instagram put up by Hajime Asaoka
On the again aspect, the motion has the kind of visible and structural depth that I like, and that still-substantial 15 mm stability wheel attracts the attention. The stability itself hides a “secret” poising methodology that enables it to swing symmetrically with out the usage of peripheral weights.
Into the depths: motion view, Asaoka Tsunami
Should you’ve been learning the motion images in any respect, you’ve little doubt observed what a pal of mine has dubbed “the Tako Wheel”: that octopus-shaped wheel beneath the stability. You probably have a half million bucks or so, you may get the identical form of wheel on a Patek Philippe Reference 5016, with admittedly considerably higher ending and as a part of a minute repeating tourbillon perpetual calendar.
However let’s not break up hairs right here, lets?
Motion element, Asaoka Tsunami with octopus wheel
Talking of ending, the general motion ending is of a really stable high quality in my opinion; in macro views we don’t see the buttercream-smooth striping or polished tooth profiles of a Philippe Dufour Simplicity. However the motion pops very properly certainly as seen with the bare eye.
The Tsunami winds with a satisfying, agency click on that may be a bit chunkier than that of, say, an A. Lange & Söhne Datograph, however significantly kinder to the fingers than the super-stiff motion of a Peseux 260.
And to return to the exterior parts of the watch, the handmade buckle with its refined curves is a deal with to peek at once in a while and simple to make use of.
Handmade buckle, Tsunami by Hajime Asaoka
Lastly, it’s all in regards to the folks! Attending to know Messrs. Asaoka and Sakurai and sharing not one, however two supply celebrations with teams of watch buddies have already added an ideal deal to how particular this piece is to me.
And figuring out that lovers world wide could have had the chance to see my watch as a part of the “Watchmakers” exhibition and its associated ebook makes all the expertise of proudly owning Tsunami No. 005 much more enjoyable.
Meet the maker, need the watch: Hajime Asaoka at Baselworld 2018
Hajime Asaoka Tsunami on the wrist
I’ve now worn the Tsunami for a few weeks with costume shirts, golf shirts, and even tee shirts, and it doesn’t disappoint.
On the wrist: Hajime Asaoka Tsunami
At 37 mm in diameter and with a reasonably huge bezel and black and gray dial, it could possibly appear a bit small when strapped on instantly after sporting a significantly bigger piece, however that sensation shortly passes.
For comparability functions, check out the Tsunami within the picture beneath subsequent to the 37 mm Jaeger-LeCoultre Futurematic Jumbo and Philippe Dufour Simplicity. In my opinion, the Tsunami provides up nothing when it comes to wrist presence to both of those two favorites of mine.
Dimension comparability: Jaeger-LeCoultre Futurematic, Asaoka Tsunami, Philippe Dufour Simplicity
Any quibbles?
I’m nonetheless very a lot within the honeymoon interval with this watch so if there’s something that bothers me too considerably about it I haven’t found it but!
Huge enchantment, small package deal: the Tsunami from Hajime Asaoka
After all, I want that the piece had been delivered on its unique schedule, however within the interim interval Asaoka appears to have raised his recreation considerably in areas comparable to dial making so I can’t be too sad about it.
When it comes to the watch itself, I’d have most popular stable exterior surfaces on the lugs to the pierced lugs that it truly has; that is one consequence of Asaoka making his personal circumstances, however I would humbly recommend that going ahead he take into account creating the aptitude for inside drilling of the spring bar holes.
Constant time: motion view, Hajime Asaoka Tsunami
Lastly, whereas the excellent news is that my Tsunami retains fairly constant time to date in real-world circumstances, the dangerous information is that to date the constant time appears to be about 9 seconds per day quick.
I’m hopeful {that a} comparatively easy adjustment shall be potential sooner or later to deliver the deviation nearer to zero. Fortunately, the present efficiency of the watch continues to be inside my benchmark vary of having the ability to set a watch exactly on Monday morning and having it point out inside one minute of the right time after I take it off on Friday night.
Closing ideas
It’s a privilege for me to personal any watch from one in all as we speak’s main unbiased watchmakers, and much more so such a uncommon instance from a watchmaker who’s so single-mindedly dedicated to his artwork.
I’m additionally very completely satisfied to have a watch like this one in my assortment that may function a day by day wearer however isn’t a chunk that I’m going to see on different folks’s wrists; the flexibility to comply with my very own instincts and gather considerably off the overwhelmed path is one thing I very a lot take pleasure in.
If something, my concern is that the Tsunami is simply too properly made to turn out to be a real daily-wear piece for me; however I’m greater than prepared for now to maintain sporting it to see how that works out!
Parting shot: taking closing supply of the Tsunami from Hajime Asaoka (picture courtesy AllenS)
For extra info, please go to https://pwtokyo.co.jp/
Fast Info Hajime Asaoka Tsunami
Case: 37 mm, chrome steel case with polished bezels and brushed case band; domed entrance saphhire crystal and exhibition again with sapphire crystal
Dial: German silver base milled in cloisonné fashion with lacquer and clay surfaces; grooved seconds subdial; printed numerals, brand, and indices
Motion: manually wound, 40-hour energy reserve; 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz frequency
Capabilities: hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds
Worth: JPY 3 million (approx. $26,700)
Manufacturing years: 2012 onward; fewer than 10 examples made as of late 2018
* This text was first revealed on October 29, 2018 at Why I Purchased It: Hajime Asaoka Tsunami.
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