Why I Purchased It: Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain

Hindsight is 20:20, isn’t it? As I sit right here writing on the finish of 2021, nothing appears extra apparent than having purchased one of many 50 accessible examples (51 if we depend the 2019 Solely Watch instance) of one of many hottest watches of current instances from a maker who’s now broadly acknowledged as a gift and future star of the horological world.

From that perspective, this might have been my shortest-ever article: “properly, simply because” or “that’s fairly clear, isn’t it?” would have simply defined “why I purchased it.” There’s a bit extra to it than that, although, and in any occasion it’s a pleasure to have the ability to share with you my experiences in buying this piece and each carrying and photographing it over the previous a number of weeks.

Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain in pink gold with black enamel dial

Why I purchased a Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain and the way it matches

It’s developing on 5 years since I first wrote right here on Quill & Pad about Akrivia and its younger founder, asking the still-open query of whether or not the promising indicators up to now would flip into full-fledged success for him.

Rexhep Rexhepi at Baselworld 2017 with pictures of the Akrivia AK-06 within the background

I used to be (and am) an enormous fan of the Akrivia AK-06 with its slimmed-down tackle the model’s assertively formed case design, and after I heard that Rexhepi deliberate to introduce a round-cased watch at Baselworld 2018 I hoped for an open-dialed piece with the AK-06 motion.

What we noticed was a extra conventional therapy with a model of the AK-06 caliber, together with the zero-reset seconds and 100-hour energy reserve options, however with a strong enamel dial. And as I departed Basel on that Saturday, I missed out on seeing the pink gold variant with black dial, which to my eye (with all due apologies to house owners of the platinum piece) turned out to be “the one” to have.

Akrivia AK-06-based motion, totally different look: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain in pink gold

The platinum model I did see additionally had the preliminary prototype dial missing the two-layer therapy and accent ring across the subsidiary seconds dial of the manufacturing watch. I’ll confess that I wasn’t fully satisfied on the time and it wasn’t till November of 2018, after I’d seen a second-generation pink gold prototype in particular person, {that a} good good friend of mine and I begged our approach onto the allocation record of considered one of Rexhepi’s retailers for the final of the accessible pink gold items.

Value begging for: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain

Quick ahead three years, and it was time to take supply of a long-awaited piece that I’m assured will keep in my assortment for a really very long time certainly.

Throughout these three years, the way in which that this watch matches into my choice migrated to some extent. On the outset, it was very a lot a “patronage” piece, purchased in help of an excellent unbiased maker and his craft. With the expansion in recognition for unbiased makers and Rexhepi’s personal continued rise in stature, I believe it’s additionally honest to categorise the Chronomètre Contemporain (or RRCC for brief) as a foundational piece that may function a worthy cornerstone of any assortment.

RRCC, the watch that made Rexhep Rexhepi well-known (picture courtesy Wisconsin Historic Society)

It’s additionally foundational within the sense of being the reference that collectors see as transferring Rexhepi into the higher tier of makers. I’ve now developed a brand new rule of assortment administration: at any time when potential, by no means promote a watch that “made” its creator’s repute.

Up to now I’ve violated that rule a few instances, promoting my Kari Voutilainen Observatoire (oops) and F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain (double oops). However I’ll assume lengthy and laborious earlier than permitting the RRCC, Philippe Dufour Simplicity, or Vianney Halter Antiqua out of my clutches – and even have hopes that the Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1 will ultimately get the popularity it deserves.

Why I like it

Sufficient about assortment dynamics: let’s get again to what’s so nice about this watch.

Particular supply: repeat after me: it’s all in regards to the folks! If there’s something higher than taking supply of a brand new watch immediately from its maker, it’s doing so within the firm of fine buddies. And the cherry on high is that if considered one of your buddies can be accumulating his watch on the similar time.

Mates chatting with Rexhep Rexhepi on the Akrivia workshop, November 2021

So it was that 4 members of our “NorCal Gang” ventured to the Akrivia workshop throughout the 2021 Geneva public sale week to fulfill with Rexhepi and take supply of two RRCCs. If you happen to’ve by no means skilled an atelier supply, one factor to know: you’ll be handled to a tour of the power earlier than you sit right down to obtain your watch.

Fortunately, I get pleasure from these excursions, and the brand new auxiliary Akrivia workroom throughout the road from the unique facility in Geneva’s Previous City accommodates an interesting array of old-school guide and mechanical watchmaking instruments – in any other case the wait would have been virtually insufferable. Quickly sufficient, although, we sat down for the formal presentation of our watches and the enjoyment of strapping them on for the primary time.

Meet the maker, need the watch: Rexhep Rexhepi presents the writer together with his RRCC (picture courtesy @l951.1)

It pops, it glows: there are nice-looking watches, there are crisp-looking watches, after which there are watches that emanate an otherworldly glow. The RRCC falls into the third class, a lot in order that it grew to become a working joke throughout the weekend’s slower moments for considered one of our group’s members to pantomime a “smelling salts” movement as a sign for me to drag up my sleeve and jolt him again to consideration.

Dial-side glow: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain

That particular glow extends to the rear of the watch as properly. Philippe Dufour as soon as informed us that the key to the glow was the liberal use of curved bombé surfaces all through to make sure that areas of {smooth}, brilliant gentle had been seen whatever the place of the watch. The RRCC motion has these beveled shapes in abundance, and the opposite eye-catching finishes together with the Geneva stripes, polished sinks, and perlage are additionally executed to a really excessive stage, including to the impact.

It’s the bombé: gleaming motion, Akrivia RRCC

Working the angles: crisp inside angles are an indicator of remarkable ending, and they’re all over the place on the RRCC, together with each on bridges and plates and on either side of every spoke of the fantastically made wheels. The diploma of problem on most of the inside angles is elevated by the presence of completely rounded bevels on the becoming a member of factors: if making a straight line is difficult, making it on a curved floor is a fair larger present of mastery.

RRCC motion element that includes a number of inside angles

Simply in case: the RRCC does depart from previous Akrivia apply by using a spherical case, nevertheless it’s not simply any “spherical” form. A cautious look reveals that the bezel is definitely an oval with narrower profiles on the perimeters and longer ones on the high and backside to match the eccentric case form, which is at its thickest at 3 and 9 o’clock and tapers down at high and backside to mix into the lugs.

See what they did there? Ovoid bezel and case shapes, Chronomètre Contemporain

I’m considerably embarrassed to admit that I hadn’t observed this function till a very observant good friend pointed it out to me; and he solely acknowledged it as soon as he had seen a disassembled RRCC case on the Akrivia workshop. It’s a beautiful contact that each provides visible curiosity and is a tip of the hat to the shapes of the earlier-generation Akrivia circumstances.

I’m additionally an enormous fan of the scratch-reducing concave entrance and rear bezels. As soon as you get thinking about the watch at size, issues just like the subtly tapered crown form soar out at you as properly. And people lugs! Actually impressed to some extent by traditional, stepped Patek Philippe designs however with their very own super-smooth profiles.

Liquid gold: {smooth} lug profiles and subtly formed case components, Rexhep Rexhepi RRCC

Dial me up: how did I get this far in with out mentioning the black fired-enamel dial? The black-with-pink look is likely one of the most interesting components of this look ahead to me, and I’ve lengthy been a fan of true oven-fired enamel dials. The Greek-temple line that winds over and underneath the Roman numerals provides a sure aptitude, and the printing of the indices and emblem is in a luscious grainy gold that appears like sugar-crystal cake frosting.

Dial element, Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain

I’m additionally a fan of the natural shapes of the hour and minute fingers, and much more so of the second hand with its cylindrical counterweight. The polished sinks on every of the fingers are a deal with when seen close-up, along with including to that “glow” I discussed earlier. Whereas I wasn’t so certain at first that the addition of the gold accent ring round a sunken subsidiary dial for seconds would work for the pink gold model of the watch, I’m now absolutely satisfied about that as properly.

Considerate element: hand shapes and subsidiary dial for seconds, Akrivia RRCC

Purposeful attraction: you possibly can’t see the underlying heart-shaped cam mechanism that powers the zero reset of the second hand when the crown is pulled, and the 100-hour energy reserve isn’t visibly indicated with a rack-and-spring association as on the AK-06, however each mechanical options are simply as a lot part of the RRCC as of the AK-06. And whereas my preliminary fantasy had been for an AK-06 in a spherical case, the thought of the mechanical sophistication of that motion hidden beneath a phenomenal strong dial has its personal attraction.

Identical options, totally different shows: the writer’s RRCC and a good friend’s Akrivia AK-06

Symmetry and depth: Rexhepi has taken on symmetry as an indicator of his design ethic, and it’s very a lot in proof within the butterfly structure of the RRCC motion. As well as, although the watch is comparatively skinny, the motion provides an actual sense of depth with the steadiness and drive wheels in a recessed space on the backside of the motion and the thick mainspring enclosure seen on the high.

Deep and symmetrical: RRCC motion

A correct chronometer: the chronometer certification of the RRCC from the Bescançon observatory was initially provided as an possibility, however by the point I joined the ready record my retailer had made it a required function – which was simply high-quality with me as I might have opted for it in any case. I get pleasure from having the certification in hand, and whereas I haven’t performed my very own timing exams but I haven’t but wanted to regulate the time on the RRCC throughout the course of per week to sync again up with the official time.

Formally licensed: Besançon observatory timing certificates

Satisfying really feel: one of many nice sensations in our passion is winding a watch whose keyless works, click on, and barrel mechanisms mix to yield a optimistic really feel and satisfying sound. The RRCC, with its straight razor click on that brings to thoughts the same mechanism on the Dufour Simplicity, passes this check with flying colours.

Winding mechanism element on the Chronmètre Contemporain with click on crossing the picture at high middle

And it wears nice: it’s a fantastic watch, however how is it on the wrist? In my expertise, it’s extremely satisfying: the traditional 38 mm diameter and longish lugs make it sit properly, and my watch got here fitted with the newest-specification ultra-thin quick-release strap, whose buttery really feel makes donning and carrying the watch a pleasure. And on the subject of studying the time and taking pictures wristshots, the extremely efficient and seemingly colorless antireflective coating on the crystal makes viewing a snap.

On the wrist: Chronomètre Contemporain by Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia

Any quibbles?

The right watch has not but been made! This one comes very shut certainly, but when I’m compelled to seek for imperfections I’ll modestly recommend the next.

• The black enamel dial is enchanting and freed from any pits or inclusions, however at sure gentle angles shows only a contact of orange peel that locations it a notch beneath the mirror-smooth end of the Patek Philippe Reference 5370P.
• I’m such a fan of the idea of symmetry as executed by Rexhepi that it did catch my consideration when a good friend identified that the shapes of the black-polished steadiness cock cap and the corresponding third wheel bridge that mirrors it on the opposite aspect of the middle line of the motion are considerably totally different in proportion, as you possibly can see at backside proper within the picture beneath. Having stared at it for some time, although, I’ve concluded that the third wheel bridge is accurately formed for its included jewel and its inside angle and beveling are so killer that I don’t actually care.

Motion view, Akrivia RRCC

• Is it a Rexhepi or an Akrivia? Each, it appears, if the crisp emblem on the dial and sharp engraving on the motion are to be believed. I’d choose that the “traditional” watches from Rexhepi carry solely his title or that the Akrivia title be promoted sooner or later to refer solely to the group relatively than the watches, however now that I’ve confessed that publicly I believe that I’ll spend zero seconds the remainder of my life eager about it.

Is it best for you?

The quick reply: in case you love wonderful watchmaking and need to personal a foundational piece by a superb artist who might be delighting us for years to return, it’s best for you. A few the reason why you may select in any other case are as follows.

• You’re a dyed-in-the-wool sports activities watch wearer and don’t have something in your assortment that approximates the RRCC in kind or fashion.
• Present house owners aren’t promoting, and after they do it appears fairly clear that they are going to be demanding substantial sums for his or her items – and you’re feeling that your hard-earned money is healthier spent on a number of watches that in mixture provide you with extra pleasure or in trying to find the “subsequent Rexhepi” whose items haven’t but achieved broad acclaim.

And, after all, one closing query

How does the RRCC evaluate with the legendary Simplicity from Philippe Dufour? I promise to think about that matter in depth sooner or later sooner or later, however for now I’ll go away you with one closing picture to whet your urge for food as you think about the query for your self.

Motion comparability: Phillipe Dufour Simplicity (left) and Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain

For extra data, please go to www.akrivia.com/watch/chronometre-contemporain-rexhep-rexhepi-2.

Fast Info Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain
Case: 39 x 9.5 mm, platinum or pink gold with polished concave bezels and case band; oval entrance bezel and eccentric profile case band; entrance and rear sapphire crystals with antireflective coating
Dial: black (pink gold) or white (platinum) fired enamel dial with recessed subsidiary seconds dial surrounded by gold or platinum ring; printed indices and emblem
Motion: manually wound Caliber RR01 with 100-hour energy reserve; 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz frequency; chronometer certification carried by Besançon observatory
Features: hours, minutes, hacking subsidiary seconds with zero reset
Value: CHF 55,000 (gold), CHF 58,000 (platinum)
Limitation: 50 examples in complete (25 platinum, 25 pink gold) with one extra watch with customized dial and JP Hagmann case made for Solely Watch 2019
Manufacturing years: 2018 to 2021

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