Why I Purchased It: Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain – Reprise

Hindsight is 20:20, isn’t it? As I sit right here writing on the finish of 2021, nothing appears extra apparent than having purchased one of many 50 obtainable examples (51 if we depend the 2019 Solely Watch instance) of one of many hottest watches of latest occasions from a maker who’s now extensively acknowledged as a gift and future star of the horological world.

From that perspective, this might have been my shortest-ever article: “effectively, simply because” or “that’s fairly clear, isn’t it?” would have simply defined “why I purchased it.” There’s a bit extra to it than that, although, and in any occasion it’s a pleasure to have the ability to share with you my experiences in buying this piece and each carrying and photographing it over the previous a number of weeks.

Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain in pink gold with black enamel dial

Why I purchased a Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain and the way it matches

It’s arising on 5 years since I first wrote right here on Quill & Pad about Akrivia and its younger founder, asking the still-open query of whether or not the promising indicators thus far would flip into full-fledged success for him.

Rexhep Rexhepi at Baselworld 2017 with pictures of the Akrivia AK-06 within the background

I used to be (and am) an enormous fan of the Akrivia AK-06 with its slimmed-down tackle the model’s assertively formed case design, and once I heard that Rexhepi deliberate to introduce a round-cased watch at Baselworld 2018 I hoped for an open-dialed piece with the AK-06 motion.

What we noticed was a extra conventional remedy with a model of the AK-06 caliber, together with the zero-reset seconds and 100-hour energy reserve options, however with a stable enamel dial. And as I departed Basel on that Saturday, I missed out on seeing the pink gold variant with black dial, which to my eye (with all due apologies to homeowners of the platinum piece) turned out to be “the one” to have.

Akrivia AK-06-based motion, totally different look: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain in pink gold

The platinum model I did see additionally had the preliminary prototype dial missing the two-layer remedy and accent ring across the subsidiary seconds dial of the manufacturing watch. I’ll confess that I wasn’t fully satisfied on the time and it wasn’t till November of 2018, after I’d seen a second-generation pink gold prototype in individual, {that a} good good friend of mine and I begged our means onto the allocation checklist of one in all Rexhepi’s retailers for the final of the obtainable pink gold items.

Value begging for: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain

Quick ahead three years, and it was time to take supply of a long-awaited piece that I’m assured will keep in my assortment for a really very long time certainly.

Throughout these three years, the way in which that this watch matches into my choice migrated to some extent. On the outset, it was very a lot a “patronage” piece, purchased in help of an impressive unbiased maker and his craft. With the expansion in recognition for unbiased makers and Rexhepi’s personal continued rise in stature, I believe it’s additionally honest to categorise the Chronomètre Contemporain (or RRCC for brief) as a foundational piece that may function a worthy cornerstone of any assortment.

RRCC, the watch that made Rexhep Rexhepi well-known (photograph courtesy Wisconsin Historic Society)

It’s additionally foundational within the sense of being the reference that collectors see as shifting Rexhepi into the higher tier of makers. I’ve now developed a brand new rule of assortment administration: every time attainable, by no means promote a watch that “made” its creator’s status.

To this point I’ve violated that rule a few occasions, promoting my Kari Voutilainen Observatoire (oops) and F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain (double oops). However I’ll assume lengthy and laborious earlier than permitting the RRCC, Philippe Dufour Simplicity, or Vianney Halter Antiqua out of my clutches – and even have hopes that the Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1 will ultimately get the popularity it deserves.

Why I like it

Sufficient about assortment dynamics: let’s get again to what’s so nice about this watch.

Particular supply: repeat after me: it’s all concerning the individuals! If there’s something higher than taking supply of a brand new watch straight from its maker, it’s doing so within the firm of excellent buddies. And the cherry on prime is that if one in all your buddies can be amassing his watch on the identical time.

Associates chatting with Rexhep Rexhepi on the Akrivia workshop, November 2021

So it was that 4 members of our “NorCal Gang” ventured to the Akrivia workshop throughout the 2021 Geneva public sale week to satisfy with Rexhepi and take supply of two RRCCs. In case you’ve by no means skilled an atelier supply, one factor to know: you may be handled to a tour of the power earlier than you sit all the way down to obtain your watch.

Fortunately, I get pleasure from these excursions, and the brand new auxiliary Akrivia workroom throughout the road from the unique facility in Geneva’s Previous City comprises an interesting array of old-school handbook and mechanical watchmaking instruments – in any other case the wait would have been nearly insufferable. Quickly sufficient, although, we sat down for the formal presentation of our watches and the enjoyment of strapping them on for the primary time.

Meet the maker, need the watch: Rexhep Rexhepi presents the creator along with his RRCC (photograph courtesy @l951.1)

It pops, it glows: there are nice-looking watches, there are crisp-looking watches, after which there are watches that emanate an otherworldly glow. The RRCC falls into the third class, a lot in order that it grew to become a working joke throughout the weekend’s slower moments for one in all our group’s members to pantomime a “smelling salts” movement as a sign for me to tug up my sleeve and jolt him again to consideration.

Dial-side glow: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain

That particular glow extends to the rear of the watch as effectively. Philippe Dufour as soon as instructed us that the key to the glow was the liberal use of curved bombé surfaces all through to make sure that areas of {smooth}, brilliant gentle have been seen whatever the place of the watch. The RRCC motion has these beveled shapes in abundance, and the opposite eye-catching finishes together with the Geneva stripes, polished sinks, and perlage are additionally executed to a really excessive degree, including to the impact.

It’s the bombé: gleaming motion, Akrivia RRCC

Working the angles: crisp inside angles are an indicator of outstanding ending, and they’re in every single place on the RRCC, together with each on bridges and plates and on both sides of every spoke of the superbly made wheels. The diploma of issue on lots of the inside angles is elevated by the presence of completely rounded bevels on the becoming a member of factors: if making a straight line is tough, making it on a curved floor is an excellent higher present of mastery.

RRCC motion element that includes a number of inside angles

Simply in case: the RRCC does depart from previous Akrivia apply by using a spherical case, but it surely’s not simply any “spherical” form. A cautious look reveals that the bezel is definitely an oval with narrower profiles on the perimeters and longer ones on the prime and backside to match the eccentric case form, which is at its thickest at 3 and 9 o’clock and tapers down at prime and backside to mix into the lugs.

See what they did there? Ovoid bezel and case shapes, Chronomètre Contemporain

I’m considerably embarrassed to admit that I hadn’t seen this function till a very observant good friend pointed it out to me; and he solely acknowledged it as soon as he had seen a disassembled RRCC case on the Akrivia workshop. It’s a beautiful contact that each provides visible curiosity and is a tip of the hat to the shapes of the earlier-generation Akrivia circumstances.

I’m additionally an enormous fan of the scratch-reducing concave entrance and rear bezels. As soon as you start thinking about the watch at size, issues just like the subtly tapered crown form soar out at you as effectively. And people lugs! Actually impressed to some extent by traditional, stepped Patek Philippe designs however with their very own super-smooth profiles.

Liquid gold: {smooth} lug profiles and subtly formed case components, Rexhep Rexhepi RRCC

Dial me up: how did I get this far in with out mentioning the black fired-enamel dial? The black-with-pink look is likely one of the most interesting elements of this look ahead to me, and I’ve lengthy been a fan of true oven-fired enamel dials. The Greek-temple line that winds over and beneath the Roman numerals offers a sure aptitude, and the printing of the indices and brand is in a luscious grainy gold that appears like sugar-crystal cake frosting.

Dial element, Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain

I’m additionally a fan of the natural shapes of the hour and minute arms, and much more so of the second hand with its cylindrical counterweight. The polished sinks on every of the arms are a deal with when seen close-up, along with including to that “glow” I discussed earlier. Whereas I wasn’t so certain at first that the addition of the gold accent ring round a sunken subsidiary dial for seconds would work for the pink gold model of the watch, I’m now totally satisfied about that as effectively.

Considerate element: hand shapes and subsidiary dial for seconds, Akrivia RRCC

Practical enchantment: you’ll be able to’t see the underlying heart-shaped cam mechanism that powers the zero reset of the second hand when the crown is pulled, and the 100-hour energy reserve isn’t visibly indicated with a rack-and-spring association as on the AK-06, however each mechanical options are simply as a lot part of the RRCC as of the AK-06. And whereas my preliminary fantasy had been for an AK-06 in a spherical case, the concept of the mechanical sophistication of that motion hidden beneath a gorgeous stable dial has its personal enchantment.

Identical options, totally different shows: the creator’s RRCC and a good friend’s Akrivia AK-06

Symmetry and depth: Rexhepi has taken on symmetry as an indicator of his design ethic, and it’s very a lot in proof within the butterfly format of the RRCC motion. As well as, although the watch is comparatively skinny, the motion offers an actual sense of depth with the stability and drive wheels in a recessed space on the backside of the motion and the thick mainspring enclosure seen on the prime.

Deep and symmetrical: RRCC motion

A correct chronometer: the chronometer certification of the RRCC from the Bescançon observatory was initially provided as an choice, however by the point I joined the ready checklist my retailer had made it a required function – which was simply high-quality with me as I’d have opted for it in any case. I get pleasure from having the certification in hand, and whereas I haven’t completed my very own timing assessments but I haven’t but wanted to regulate the time on the RRCC throughout the course of per week to sync again up with the official time.

Formally licensed: Besançon observatory timing certificates

Satisfying really feel: one of many nice sensations in our pastime is winding a watch whose keyless works, click on, and barrel mechanisms mix to yield a optimistic really feel and satisfying sound. The RRCC, with its straight razor click on that brings to thoughts the same mechanism on the Dufour Simplicity, passes this take a look at with flying colours.

Winding mechanism element on the Chronmètre Contemporain with click on crossing the picture at prime middle

And it wears nice: it’s an ideal watch, however how is it on the wrist? In my expertise, it’s extremely satisfying: the traditional 38 mm diameter and longish lugs make it sit effectively, and my watch got here fitted with the newest-specification ultra-thin quick-release strap, whose buttery really feel makes donning and carrying the watch a pleasure. And on the subject of studying the time and capturing wristshots, the extremely efficient and seemingly colorless antireflective coating on the crystal makes viewing a snap.

On the wrist: Chronomètre Contemporain by Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia

Any quibbles?

The proper watch has not but been made! This one comes very shut certainly, but when I’m pressured to seek for imperfections I’ll modestly counsel the next.

• The black enamel dial is enchanting and freed from any pits or inclusions, however at sure gentle angles shows only a contact of orange peel that locations it a notch under the mirror-smooth end of the Patek Philippe Reference 5370P.
• I’m such a fan of the idea of symmetry as executed by Rexhepi that it did catch my consideration when a good friend identified that the shapes of the black-polished stability cock cap and the corresponding third wheel bridge that mirrors it on the opposite facet of the middle line of the motion are considerably totally different in proportion, as you’ll be able to see at backside proper within the picture under. Having stared at it for some time, although, I’ve concluded that the third wheel bridge is appropriately formed for its included jewel and its inside angle and beveling are so killer that I don’t actually care.

Motion view, Akrivia RRCC

• Is it a Rexhepi or an Akrivia? Each, it appears, if the crisp brand on the dial and sharp engraving on the motion are to be believed. I’d choose that the “traditional” watches from Rexhepi carry solely his title or that the Akrivia title be promoted in some unspecified time in the future to refer solely to the group moderately than the watches, however now that I’ve confessed that publicly I think that I’ll spend zero seconds the remainder of my life fascinated about it.

Is it best for you?

The brief reply: in case you love glorious watchmaking and need to personal a foundational piece by an excellent artist who will likely be delighting us for years to return, it’s best for you. A few the explanation why you may select in any other case are as follows.

• You’re a dyed-in-the-wool sports activities watch wearer and don’t have something in your assortment that approximates the RRCC in kind or type.
• Present homeowners aren’t promoting, and after they do it appears fairly clear that they are going to be demanding substantial sums for his or her items – and you’re feeling that your hard-earned money is best spent on a number of watches that in combination offer you extra pleasure or in trying to find the “subsequent Rexhepi” whose items haven’t but achieved broad acclaim.

And, in fact, one closing query

How does the RRCC examine with the legendary Simplicity from Philippe Dufour? I promise to contemplate that subject in depth in some unspecified time in the future sooner or later, however for now I’ll depart you with one closing photograph to whet your urge for food as you contemplate the query for your self.

Motion comparability: Phillipe Dufour Simplicity (left) and Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain

For extra info, please go to www.akrivia.com/watch/chronometre-contemporain-rexhep-rexhepi-2.

Fast Information Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain
Case: 38 x 9.5 mm, platinum or pink gold with polished concave bezels and case band; oval entrance bezel and eccentric profile case band; entrance and rear sapphire crystals with antireflective coating
Dial: black (pink gold) or white (platinum) fired enamel dial with recessed subsidiary seconds dial surrounded by gold or platinum ring; printed indices and brand
Motion: manually wound Caliber RR01 with 100-hour energy reserve; 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz frequency; chronometer certification carried by Besançon observatory
Features: hours, minutes, hacking subsidiary seconds with zero reset
Value: CHF 55,000 (gold), CHF 58,000 (platinum)
Limitation: 50 examples in complete (25 platinum, 25 pink gold) with one extra watch with customized dial and JP Hagmann case made for Solely Watch 2019
Manufacturing years: 2018 to 2021

*This text was first revealed on December 5, 2021 at Why I Purchased It: Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain

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