I used to be sitting at my breakfast desk on the morning of January 18, 2013, getting ready to go away for my flight to Geneva for the SIHH, when throughout my morning scan of stories I noticed a photograph of one thing breathtaking.
It was Logical One by Romain Gauthier – a watch I instantly knew that I might personal sometime.
Logical One by Romain Gauthier in white gold
Lower than 24 hours later, I used to be excitedly exhibiting the picture to my watch friends on the Frankfurt airport as we waited for our connection to Geneva. A well-placed e-mail or two later discovered us sitting with Gauthier and his prototype watch the next Friday afternoon at our Geneva lodge.
I wasn’t in a position to order the watch on the spot and finally missed out on the primary restricted editions in pink gold and platinum. However fast-forward just a little greater than two years to the spring of 2015 and I used to be writing to Romain after the introduction of two new Logical One fashions in white gold and titanium to test on pricing and availability.
Reverse of the Romain Gauthier Logical One
Why I purchased it
When the brand new editions got here out, I had the benefit of getting seen the sooner prototype; however as at all times, it’s finest to see one’s precise future watch within the metallic each time attainable. So when our schedules took us each to New York, I took the chance to go to with Gauthier to see the brand new items in individual.
To say that I used to be captivated by the white gold model with frosted gold motion could be a substantial understatement. Of all of the variations of the Logical One, that is “the one” for me in the identical method that others would possibly solely take into account a platinum A. Lange & Söhne Datograph or stainless-steel Rolex Daytona.
Briefly, the primary purpose I purchased this watch was that it appeared completely spectacular to me!
Sheer magnificence: Romain Gauthier Logical One
A number of weeks later, an excellent watch pal of mine and I traveled to Las Vegas to satisfy up once more with Gauthier and see three watches: the white gold and the blackened titanium variations, in addition to a (then nonetheless unannounced) “pure” titanium model.
My good friend additionally fell in love with the white metallic/gold motion look on the spot. After a couple of e-mail exchanges with a 3rd collector good friend who favored the black titanium look, all three of us signed up for what turned a set of exceptional “buddy” watches.
The power to share the enjoyment and pleasure with good mates was yet one more key buy motivator for me.
Motion element: winding system and energy reserve of the Romain Gauthier Logical One
In line with my good friend Terry’s taxonomy, this was undoubtedly a “patronage” buy for me: purchased in recognition of Gauthier’s good work, in help of his ongoing independence, and stemming from a need to personal a timepiece that represents his private imaginative and prescient and skills.
Why I adore it
It simply seems to be nice: Sure, I do know that’s subjective, however simply take a look at it!
I’ve already talked about the contrasting colours; the good ending has already been the topic of one other article right here on Quill & Pad (see Why We Are In A Golden Age For Appreciating Superlative Hand-Ending In Wristwatches); and the putting ruby rollers on the motion’s chain, particularly as seen on the early examples of the watch (extra on this later) present large visible curiosity.
I significantly like the best way that totally different textures, each machine- and hand-applied, are used to attract the attention to totally different parts of the watch. The usage of shapes and areas of lighter and darker colours current a balanced general view.
And, I’m a sucker for three-dimensionality as the next double wristshot makes clear.
Deep dimensionality: the writer’s Romain Gauthier Logical One and Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1 facet by facet on the wrist
It’s creative: The thought of taking the idea of a multi-level fusée and chain and re-imagining it as a shorter, bigger chain on a single stage, connected to a snail cam reasonably than to a cone (fusée), is solely incredible.
And that’s not the one innovation right here: there are different bits starting from the distinctive shapes of the gear enamel, to the push-button winding system, to the see-through, low-friction sapphire spring barrel that’s each lovely and purposeful.
Innovation in motion: fixed torque meeting of the Romain Gauthier Logical One
It’s purposeful: The entire goal of the snail-and-chain mechanism is constant timekeeping all through the mainspring’s journey from absolutely wound to fully exhausted.
And because the timing sheet that accompanies the watch exhibits, the constant-torque motion design succeeds in nearly eradicating all unfavorable results on isochronism all through the motion’s 46-hour energy reserve.
Illustration of the timing advantages of the Romain Gauthier Logical One’s constant-torque mechanism (supply romaingauthier.com)
It’s considerate: Gauthier clearly gave quite a lot of thought to design selections, giant and small, that make this watch a pleasure to put on. One instance is the marginally concave bezel that enables it to gleam with a excessive polish whereas on the similar time being much less more likely to scratch than a convex or flat bezel.
One other merchandise is what seems to be from above to be a cylindrical bar connecting the 2 ends of the bridge over the constant-torque mechanism is in truth two shapes: a sophisticated, higher portion with a semi-circular cross part atop a brushed straight-sided decrease aspect.
Low-angle view: Romain Gauthier Logical One highlighting the semi-cylindrical constant-torque bridge
Gauthier defined to us that he made this selection each to yield a stronger brace towards the forces on this a part of the motion and to keep away from the issue and price of ending a superbly cylindrical element, significantly because the bridge is titanium and really tough to file and polish.
As an engineer, I discovered dialogue of this and different selections extremely informative and fascinating; as a viewer, I discover that this specific visible trick bothers me under no circumstances.
It’s evolving: You may inform that I really like this watch as a result of I even love that it has modified since its introduction and will change once more!
When you look rigorously at pictures of the unique Logical One prototype and evaluate them with pictures of the manufacturing variations, you’ll discover some fairly important updates.
Manufacturing model Romain Gauthier Logical One with clear sapphire crystal spring barrel and revised winding system
Amongst different issues, all the winding and energy reserve mechanism is considerably revised and occupies a wholly totally different vertical location on the reverse of the motion; the sapphire crystal cowl of the spring barrel is now plainly seen (and superbly clear); and the shapes and elevations of a number of the supporting bridges have modified greater than as soon as as effectively.
On the dial facet, the impossibly slim constant-torque chain with its distinguished ruby rollers turned out to be, effectively, not possible to execute. It has now been changed with a broader, extra strong model. The rollers are nonetheless there, however simply that tiny bit tougher to see.
Ruby slippers: motion element exhibiting ruby bearings on fixed torque chain of the Romain Gauthier Logical One
Throughout the motion itself, the variety of jewels is up and the claimed energy reserve down from the preliminary fashions.
That stated, I discover it exceptional that Gauthier is ready to establish and rectify rising points shortly. Following supply, I skilled a little bit of an issue with the monitoring of the chain on its decrease wheel; reasonably than merely adjusting the watch and returning it, Gauthier and his staff identified the problem and designed, fabricated, completed, and put in new elements inside a couple of weeks.
And whereas they had been at it, they carried out one other precautionary modification to the winding system.
The writer’s Romain Gauthier Logical One post-service: can you see the distinction?
Any quibbles?
It wouldn’t be a good evaluate if there weren’t one or two! I’ve already talked about the much less distinguished ruby rollers and diminished energy reserve above, so I received’t dwell on these right here.
From a purposeful perspective, the push-button winding is considerably improved from the unique model however nonetheless takes a little bit of effort and dedication.
From a visible viewpoint, I do want every so often that the beautiful enamel dial had markings for the minutes between 27 and 33 previous the hour much like these on Gauthier’s normal dials.
All in all, a small listing of “oh dears” to go along with a protracted listing of “oh mys!”
Rather a lot to like: Romain Gauthier’s Logical One in white gold
Is it best for you?
As at all times, watch selection is a extremely private factor. The Logical One is perhaps simply the look ahead to you if:
- Like me, you’re keen on the look of the watch
- The technical and engineering points of the Logical One converse to you
- Timekeeping accuracy is a specific curiosity of yours
- You need a function in selling one of many rising stars of the impartial watch scene, who’s a very good man as well
You would possibly suppose twice if:
- You prefer a extremely standard look
- You may’t think about spending this amount of cash for a three-handed watch, no matter its underlying complication and technical deserves
- You might be fully unwilling to contemplate the concept that an extra tweak or two could also be wanted throughout your possession of the watch
I’ve thought-about the tradeoffs, and I’ve clearly made my very own selection!
Parting shot: Romain Gauthier Logical One in white gold
For extra data, please go to www.romaingauthier.com/logical-one.
Fast Information Romain Gauthier Logical One
Features: hours, minutes, small seconds; push winding
Case: ADLC-coated or pure titanium or white gold, 43 x 14.2 mm
Motion: in-house manually wound manufacture caliber, 46-hour energy reserve, push-button winding, chain-and-snail-cam fixed torque system
Worth: 125,000 Swiss francs in white gold; 98,000 Swiss francs in titanium; enamel dial out there for a 5,000 Swiss franc surcharge
* This text was first revealed on February 16, 2016 at Why I Purchased It: Romain Gauthier Logical One.
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