“I’ve no secrets and techniques as previous watchmakers had. There are graveyards stuffed with secrets and techniques and that’s sufficient.” –Philippe Dufour, 2014
Have you ever heard of Philippe Dufour?
Likelihood is, you probably have been accumulating watches for any important time period, his identify is well-known to you. However I’m not assuming that everybody studying these phrases is a collector, or perhaps a dyed-in-the-wool watch fanatic. I meet many individuals in my watch-related comings and goings who aren’t both conscious, or absolutely conscious, of Dufour and his work.
That mentioned, a fantastic deal has already been mentioned, written, and recorded about Philippe Dufour. My Quill & Pad colleagues Elizabeth and Ian have each written at size on the person, he has appeared in movies and films, and there may be even a Japanese comedian guide about him!
Nonetheless, I’ve such deep respect for Philippe that I’d prefer to set out my private views: first on why I imagine that he’s vital to the world of horology, and second on why he’s vital to me as an individual.
Let’s get going. The 5 key descriptors I really feel are essential to understanding Dufour’s significance to the watch world are: basis, custom, innovation, perfection, and perpetuation.
Basis
Once I was a younger instrumentalist, any journey to the music retailer or request for an audition inevitably started with the question, “Who’s your trainer?” Whether or not in taking part in or composing, apprenticeship has lengthy been a essential aspect of musical mastery, and the identical is true of top-level watchmaking.
A younger Philippe Dufour (picture courtesy Le Membership Horloger)
Haydn, along with influencing Mozart, taught Beethoven, who taught Czerny, who taught Lizst.
Within the horological world, Charles Meylan schooled Kari Voutilainen; George Daniels influenced and impressed François-Paul Journe and labored carefully with Roger Smith; and it was Gabriel Locatelli who handed alongside most of the essential “secrets and techniques” to Philippe Dufour.
Locatelli was prolific in his affect: over a interval of years, he handed his data alongside to many others, together with Eric Coudray of Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon and Reverso Repetition Minutes fame and younger horological famous person David Candaux.
Dufour and Locatelli had an in depth relationship that survived properly past their instances at Jaeger-LeCoultre. Previous to his premature demise in a motoring accident, Gabriel labored along with Philippe, and even constructed the Simplicity prototype that’s Philippe’s every day wearer.
Philippe Dufour Simplicity on the wrist of the writer (picture GaryG)
Right here’s that watch, seen on my wrist (what you may’t see are the chills that have been working down my backbone).
Custom
One other factor that Dufour has in frequent with many different nice watchmakers is the time that he spent as a restorer of superb classic timepieces. In doing so, he was in a position to study the patterns distinguishing watchmaking traditions and even particular person watchmakers from one another.
He additionally discovered to establish quite a lot of methods of fixing given issues, and, in the end, to search out his personal desired type of expression primarily based on the normal motion architectures and creative expressions of the Vallée de Joux from the interval between 1850 and 1920.
Dufour ‘s work perpetuates, and extends, that nice custom.
Innovation
Dufour doesn’t think about himself a fantastic innovator; in truth, he typically claims that there’s “nothing new” in horology. Definitely, he has drawn inspiration from prior innovations. As an example, right here’s a photograph of a scholar watch from 1933 that offers us a way of the inspiration for Dufour’s twin-escapement Duality.
A Le Sentier horological faculty watch with two escapements: the inspiration for Philippe Dufour’s Duality (picture GaryG)
However it might be useless flawed to say that Philippe has not introduced innovation to his work. Amongst different issues, he was the primary to make a grande et petite sonnerie in wristwatch type and the primary to make a dual-escapement wristwatch with differential.
He was additionally among the many very first to make use of computer-aided design (CAD) instruments – one thing which may shock those that think about him old style – and he makes use of modern strategies similar to spark erosion to fabricate uncooked elements that he then turns into jewels together with his deft contact.
Lastly, he helped to drive enterprise mannequin innovation in watchmaking by having the braveness to exit on his personal as an impartial. He wasn’t the primary impartial, however together with George Daniels he confirmed the way in which for actually top-rate watchmaking as a highway to artistic and business independence.
Perfection
At this level an anecdote: when you ever go to Philippe’s workshop and look in the proper spot, you will note a set of identical-appearing cylindrical plugs hanging on a board. I occurred to ask what they have been for, and right here’s the response. “The case maker is unable to make the inside circumference of the Simplicity case to the tolerance that I like. So, I take advantage of these cylinders, of barely various dimension, to establish the precise inside diameter of a given case, and I then machine the bottom plate of the motion to suit precisely inside.”
For me extra chills spill down the backbone simply attempting to think about the sheer stage of dedication required to do that kind of exact matching of motion to case. To not point out dozens of different issues that I’m positive we don’t know when there’s a fairly good likelihood that they may by no means come to mild.
The seen outcomes are as close to to perfection, in my view, as a hand-finished timepiece may be. There may be clearly mastery of approach concerned, but in addition a deep need to use that mastery.
At this stage, to me, it’s not simply craft, however genuine creative expression.
Shut-up of the motion of a Philippe Dufour Simplicity displaying the elegant hand ending (picture GaryG)
Philippe held our group of collectors spellbound this previous January speaking about a few of the “secrets and techniques” of his craft: how when he recordsdata a component, each the file and piece should transfer to ensure that them to work collectively to create an ideal floor.
And the way, when he makes use of a bow to shine a jewel sink, he can inform when it’s good by the temperature of the sharpening rod on his fingers.
Perfection, achieved on the intersection of information, expertise, and keenness.
Perpetuation
This consists of an vital sub-element: inspiration. Kari Voutilainen’s current biography states that Kari was impressed to begin up his personal impartial atelier after a dialog with Dufour.
Behind the scenes, Philippe encourages and counsels different independents, together with Romain Gauthier (whose Logical One knocked my socks off). He shares freely of his insights and helps troubleshoot tough technical issues encountered by his colleagues.
Extra publicly, he’s a central determine within the Le Garde Temps, la Naissance d’une Montre challenge together with Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey. Philippe is working actively with watchmaker Michel Boulanger (an skilled restorer and professor in his personal proper) to go alongside the “secrets and techniques” of creating a top quality watch by hand in order that they are often preserved and handed on for future generations.
Innovation performs a job right here as properly, with most of the strategies being captured by way of 3D video. So, thanks partly to Philippe, the Boulangers and Gauthiers and lots of others to come back are poised to develop into the Czernys and Lizsts of horology.
Lastly, Dufour’s variations of earlier improvements are themselves inspiring new watches. A current instance of that is the dual-escapement Legacy Machine 2 by MB&F, whose founder Maximilian Büsser says was very a lot impressed by the Dufour Duality.
Two examples of MB&F Legacy Machine No.2 flank their inspiration, a Philippe Dufour Duality: all characteristic two escapements linked by a differential (picture GaryG)
Dufour and I
Suffice it to say that I really feel presumptuous merely typing the subtitle above! It has, nevertheless, been my distinct privilege to fulfill Philippe on plenty of events and get to know him a bit, and so maybe I may be forgiven just a few private observations.
Along with his position as an enormous of horology, he’s additionally vital to me as an individual for the next causes.
He’s humorous
And I imply actually humorous. In a manner that’s each intelligent and performs off of who he’s and the way individuals react to him. At a dinner earlier this 12 months, he stored glancing at a watch whose edge was poking out from underneath his proper sleeve till we begged for a glance.
After describing it as his “subsequent Duality” and getting our salivary glands on overload, he pulled up his sleeve to disclose a Chinese language-made watch with uncovered twin balances!
One in every of our group has an in depth relationship with a significant producer (I’ll name it RolBregVach to guard the harmless), and roughly believes that the solar rises and units on the model. Particularly, he spends a good period of time reminding us of the sensible hand-finishing that’s, to him, a trademark of the model.
Realizing this from prior interactions, Philippe appeared fondly on the Chinese language watch, smiled, and mentioned, “With a little bit of bzzz bzzz on the sting of the motion plates with a motorized software, this could possibly be a RolBregVach!” Howls throughout.
When he offered me with my Simplicity, he advised the story of a terminally unwell girl who had approached him the prior week with a request to make Simplicities for every of her three sons as mementoes of her love.
With what I spotted solely later was a twinkle in his eye having hooked me with this touching however utterly fabricated story, he mentioned, “Gary, I needed to inform her no – however I hope that you simply really feel good that you simply’re getting one!”
The writer fortunately accumulating his Simplicity from its creator, Philippe Dufour
He’s real
He tells tales, names names, and minces no phrases relating to telling you what he thinks, be it constructive or detrimental. When he praises a bit, it carries immense weight. When he criticizes one, there isn’t a doubt about what he thinks.
He loves A. Lange und Söhne and owns (and wears) a Lange Datograph, however he’s no fan of the extra complicated Tourbograph as a result of he sees it as a “complication cocktail.”
His (detrimental) response to a buddy’s chronograph pusher really feel was devastating sufficient that the piece was on its method to a brand new proprietor inside weeks.
His tales – whether or not of the well-known trade determine who put one of many Dufour/Audemars Piguet sonnerie pocket watches in his outer swimsuit coat pocket after which proceeded to slam it within the door of his sports activities automobile (see “he’s humorous,” above), or of quieter instances along with Gabriel Locatelli – by no means stop to fascinate.
Philippe is the true deal, and his forthright expression, whereas maybe unpopular with some trade figures, is one other of his presents to us.
He’s proud, however is aware of his limitations
I used to be going to make use of the time period “self-deprecating” at one level earlier on this article, however instantly stopped myself: Philippe is, in his personal quiet manner, clearly fairly conscious of his management position on this planet of superb watchmaking.
One factor that has all the time struck me: when you take a look at any of the various pictures accessible of Philippe presenting a Dufour watch to its new proprietor, he’s all the time wanting on the similar place. That is instantly on the watch, with a mild smile revealing his satisfaction with what he has wrought.
I want that I may say that I can take a look at each work product of my profession in the identical manner!
On the similar time, Philippe can also be fairly frank on his views of his personal limitations. He has mentioned on many events that he needs he had been in a position to construct an everlasting workforce round him in his atelier. Maybe that might be an excessive amount of to ask from one whose presents and zeal for perfection make it tough for others to maintain tempo.
He’s beneficiant
At this 12 months’s SIHH, Philippe rushed as much as us in the primary corridor and mentioned he had a request for us. He needed us to fulfill his daughter, who’s an govt with a big U.S. company.
He launched us as “these loopy collectors from California that I speak about,” which as you may think about was flattery certainly from our perspective!
Taking time from his household dialogue to attract us into the circle was only one instance of expressions of generosity, giant and small, that to me typifies the person.
Philippe Dufour and the writer exchanging views over a glass (or two) of wine
He’s an artist
I’m utterly assured that he works initially to please himself, inside a practice and lengthening it as a method of self-expression. He’s typically quoted as saying that watchmaking is his pastime; I don’t suppose that there’s any doubt that on the finish of the day that he solutions solely to himself.
He’s snug in his personal pores and skin
Biggest instance (to me) right here is from a go to of impartial watchmakers to China a 12 months or so in the past, wherein the watchmakers had the chance to decorate in Chinese language ceremonial robes for a dinner.
Once I appeared on the photographs, it occurred to me that whereas the others seem like Swiss, Dutch, or Finnish guys who one way or the other discovered themselves on one other planet and can be solely too eager to get again into their Western fits, Dufour seems to be as if he have been born in imperial garb.
He reads my stuff
At dinner this previous January, I discussed a discussion board publish I had made on the subject of my Simplicity, and Philippe mentioned, “I preferred that one!” I used to be bowled over that he not solely learn, however truly preferred, a few of my posts and mentioned so.
His response, once more with that twinkle, “I do learn them, however I can’t reply to them on-line, as a result of then another individuals will say, “Waaaahhh! Dufour didn’t reply to my publish’!” (See “he’s humorous,” above).
Philippe Dufour and GaryG
Dufour from a collector’s perspective
One in every of my roles right here at Quill & Pad is to current the angle of an fanatic collector: somebody who appreciates many watches, however on the finish of the day can plunk down his personal hard-earned money on solely a small subset of them.
In my humble opinion, possession of a Dufour watch is a particularly worthy objective for any collector with the means to take action.
I’m delighted with my 37 mm Simplicity in white gold, and my best remorse as a collector is that my absentee bid at public sale for one of many sonnerie pocket watches that Philippe did for Audemars Piguet was too low to hold the day.
A “household” of Philippe Dufour timepieces
What I’m speaking about right here is just not the potential for monetary appreciation, as nobody is aware of what the long run costs of explicit watches might be. It’s to carry in a single’s arms a bit of historical past – a watch that some day, like these of Abraham-Louis Breguet and George Daniels, might be worthy of inclusion within the best collections and museums of the world.
I’m not alone, both. Amongst our small native fanatic collector group, there are six Dufour watches: 5 Simplicities, and one of many 9 Dualities made. Nice items certainly, nevertheless it’s the truth that our enthusiasm for them provides us the chance to know Philippe, and see him at work, that’s really priceless.
* This text was first printed on June 16, 2014 at Why Philippe Dufour Issues. And It’s Not A Secret.
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