My favourite wine ebook was written again in 1940 by an English decide who was as soon as a confirmed and dedicated teetotaler. The early days of World Struggle II are in all probability an odd time for a wine ebook to be revealed. Certainly, the “standing sort” suffered “full destruction by enemy motion,” making any copy a collector’s merchandise. Sadly, the ebook’s writer, Maurice Healy, handed away in 1943; happily, it has been reprinted.
The ebook is Keep Me with Flagons, an odd title, although a splendidly entertaining learn, if considerably dated.
‘Keep Me with Flagons’ by Maurice Healy
Today, I’m not positive they’d hassle to reprint it as a lot of it’s now so politically incorrect. “A wine not match to be served to Christians,” is among the extra temperate feedback. It’s virtually a bit like that cute outdated uncle turning as much as Christmas, consuming a bit a lot, and saying essentially the most outrageous issues.
There are not any shades of grey for Healy.
Château Yquem
Chateau Yquem? He’s satisfied that miracle wine on the marriage feast at Cana was a prophecy for the approaching of Château Yquem.
Healy declares the 1928 Krug champagne to be the most effective wine of the century (and having tasted it as soon as, who am I to argue?).
Krug Grande Cuvée
Mulled wine is nothing in need of “vandalism.”
“Of Australian wines, I can hardly convey myself to put in writing with endurance,” though he later concedes that not all Aussie wine is detestable.
Meals can be not resistant to his scathing gaze: “Oyster soup is a felony, a sacrilege, a misprision of treason, a blow beneath the belt and, in brief, the flawed use of a great factor.”
German brandy? “Coarse and harsh and effectively suited to their rulers.” In equity, 1940 won’t have been the time one anticipated variety phrases from an Englishman about something German (and, belief me, he doesn’t disappoint).
Healy – the teetotaler was led astray by his Irish priest – turned essentially the most devoted lover of Bordeaux possible. He usually says so. Certainly, this ebook devotes three strong chapters to the reds of Bordeaux. No different area will get a couple of.
However – and also you knew there could be a however – regardless of his said adoration of the reds of Bordeaux, Healy confesses that the three best wines he tried in his life had been all from Burgundy (I consider a few of his associates informed him he had misplaced his thoughts when he got here out and mentioned so publicly).
Healy goes additional, “Let there be little doubt about it: Burgundy at its finest overtops Claret at its finest.” Healy’s editor, an outdated pal, was so outraged at this that he really inserts his personal opposite ideas into the ebook, in simply as scathing phrases as we had seen from Healy.
These three wines had been a 1923 Richebourg, the 1904 La Tache, and an 1889 Volnay Caillerets. Healy does go on to say that, “You’ll solely drink 4 or 5 bottles of actually first-class Burgundy in your complete life, and you’ll be fortunate if you happen to discover so many.”
Vineyards of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in Burgundy
How does Healy describe these Burgundies?
“One hears the clang of armor in its depths; Mozart closes his clavacin when it’s poured, and Dr. P.G. Wodehouse defers telling that story he was about to start: however Bach strikes in direction of the organ; Henry Ainley [a famous actor of the day] opens the pages of Henry V; the host activates the lighting of his Rembrandt; and the noble wine blends with all of them.”
“So marvelous, so delicate was the bouquet, it appeared an impertinence to go additional and style this miraculous liquid; and but, on the palate it virtually made one remorse the waste of time the moments spent in taking within the fragrance.”
We simply don’t have wine critics like this anymore!
However has any tasting be aware ever matched this? For the 1889 Volnay (not even a Grand Cru!!):
“Practically 20 years in the past, however I nonetheless bear in mind the magnificent shock of that bouquet, wealthy in mellow perfection, and completely free from the infirmities of age. I took one sip; I closed my eyes, and each lovely factor that I had ever identified crowded into my reminiscence. Within the outdated fairy tales, the prince drinks a magic portion, or seems right into a magic crystal, and all of the secrets and techniques of the world are revealed to him. I’ve skilled that miracle. The tune of armies sweeping into battle, the roar of the waves upon a rocky shore, the glint of sunshine after rain on the leaves of a forest, the depths of the church organ, the voices of kids singing hymns, all these and 100 different issues appeared to be blended into one magnificence . . . Sure, I a devotee of Bordeaux, solemnly declare that the three best bottles I’ve ever tasted had been all from Burgundy.”
At which level his editor (and pal) can now not restrain himself and declares that Healy was a fraud and a closet lover of Burgundy, successfully kicking him out of the intense crimson wine lovers’ membership.
I’m sufficiently old (simply) to recollect when Bordeaux was king and Burgundy was little greater than a depraved pleasure. The critics and specialists (not all the time the identical factor) would insist that for consistency, high quality, reliability, and the best wine you possibly can drink, Bordeaux was merely the one alternative.
Champagne was enjoyable for filling within the time till the actual wines had been served, however probably not thought of as nice wine. One had a white – virtually all the time White Burgundy – with the entrée because it was extra suited to the oysters or fish, however then it was crimson for critical consuming. Bordeaux. Any wine occasion was measured by the Bordeaux on supply.
Properly-aged classic Ports (picture courtesy Jared Greenhill/Wikipedia Commons)
A Sauternes and a classic Port would end any critical meal. The exception was the wines of the wonderful Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, or if you happen to had been lucky an occasional bottle of Henri Jayer. One was allowed to slide a kind of in so long as one didn’t overdo it.
The saying was that 9 out of ten bottles of high crimson that one tried would all be Bordeaux, the tenth Burgundy. However others would say, positive, Burgundy may be very a lot a lottery and much too usually you’re going to get overpriced dross. However when it clicks, that one bottle of Burgundy will go away the Bordeaux within the mud. Bordeaux is cerebral; Burgundy is sensual.
That is an argument that has been happening for years. You’ve as a lot probability as convincing a dedicated soccer fan to desert his group for the lifelong opposition as getting a wine lover to swap allegiances. However it’s enjoyable making an attempt.
Occasions have modified
Bordeaux remains to be an enormous presence on this planet of fantastic wine, and its legions of followers won’t hear a phrase towards it. Burgundy, nevertheless, has gone previous that “toss a coin” mentality. Far much less high Burgundy is made than Bordeaux – Bordeaux is a a lot bigger wine-producing area – and costs for the nice Burgundies have been on an ever-upward spiral for numerous years.
In the meantime, granted that COVID-19 and the following financial catastrophe are taking part in an enormous function on this, costs for the highest Bordeaux launched for the 2019 en primeur program are down by 30 p.c.
As I’m positive I’ve talked about beforehand, like many different lovers of nice Burgundy, I can recall the second the swap was flicked. Far too a few years in the past, at a tremendous dinner to have fun the 1945 Bordeaux classic (one of many all-time greats), we had been having fun with some actually extraordinary wines. After which a pal threw in a ringer. A younger wine about which I knew, at the moment, treasured little. However what a wine!
Thirty minutes after ending it, I might nonetheless maintain up the glass and odor the florals, the spices, the violets, as if the glass was full. Mindboggling. So complicated, so silky, such persistence, so ethereal. So good!
1971 DRC Romanée-Conti (picture courtesy Christie’s)
The wine was the 1971 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, for me essentially the most thrilling wine property on this planet, the best winery, and one of many all-time finest vintages. And it drank prefer it! Till a couple of years in the past, it was for me the best wine I had ever tasted.
It was lastly topped by one other Burgundy, a wine from the identical producer and the identical winery, the 1929 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Heaven on earth. The tune of armies and the voices of kids, certainly.
The golden period for Burgundy? It’s now!
We are actually in a golden period for the nice wines of Burgundy. Sadly, the costs and really restricted availability of the most effective wines imply that only a few of us will take pleasure in them. I’m firmly with Maurice Healy: the best of all wines are the best Burgundies.
Now, if I could, I must apologize. I’ve digressed. My intention was merely to have an in-depth have a look at the wines of Chambertin, one in all Burgundy’s most interesting Grand Crus. However I turned a little bit sidetracked. I might shoehorn one thing in right here, however it appears superfluous. If His Honor, Mr. Justice Healy, didn’t convert you, or verify your present opinion, then there’s little probability I’ll.
Domaine Dujac Gevrey Chambertin aux Combottes 1999 (picture courtesy www.cellartracker.com)
Chambertin is, in fact, the topic of one of many nice wine quotes: “I neglect the identify of the place; I neglect the identify of the lady; however the wine was Chambertin.” It appears to have been attributed to anybody who put pen to paper again within the day, however apparently belongs to the author Hilaire Belloc.
Chambertin can be well-known because the wine of alternative for French emperor Napoleon. He insisted that his employees have bottles obtainable for him on each marketing campaign.
However maybe the ultimate phrase ought to go to Maurice Healy. He acknowledges that Chambertin was Napoleon’s favourite wine however can’t assist himself, including, “which the wretched man shook up throughout Europe and drank with water.” One thing we might strongly advise towards.
It gained’t be lengthy earlier than nice Burgundy turns into only one extra of the unicorn wines. Take the prospect, whilst you can, to take pleasure in it now and to inventory some away within the cellar.
For extra info, please go to www.beaune-tourism.com/uncover/burgundy-wines.
* This text was first revealed on June 29, 2020 at Wonderful Burgundy Is Experiencing An Unprecedented Golden Age Of Unbelievable Wine Vintages.
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